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Routes in The Umbrella Boulder

Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 650 total · 35/month
Shared By: Andrew Phillips on Jul 6, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Sit Start- Dynamic Movement Right Hand to Remain on Rail Foot to remain on Start foot.
Right Hand: Rail Crimp
Left Hand: Undercling
Variation 1: Gaston First Crimp then Deadpoint/ Dyno
Variation 2: Gaston Second Crimp then Deadpoint/ Dyno

No Arete.

Location

20 Feet to the right of the Umbrella Boulder.. Its in between Umbrella and Block Boulder

Protection

Crash Pad and Spotter

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4
Hey Andrew, I started fully sitting and did not use the big block for feet. On variation two I went up with my right hand which seemed to be a bit easier than the bump method.

Did the photo's I upload look correct from what you did?

I switched my suggested grades to 4 and 4+ after some more thought. Regardless they are fun variations to climb when you are in the area.

The grades are just compared to other things in the area. These moves are easier than 'Knock Your Block Off', 'Child Prodigy', 'Neptune's Throne' which are all solid in the v6 grade, so that was my thought process in suggesting grades. Jul 20, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4
Hey guys, while I do think these are fun variations I do not think they are v6 or v7. Granted I am tall, but I believe variation 1 is v4+ and variation 2 is v4.

Also I couldn't find the undercling you listed as starting left hand, so I used a chalked crimp below the big rail. However, I wonder why you wouldn't just start matched on the rail?

Check out the photo's I loaded and make sure i have the variations correct, maybe i got something wrong and that accounts for the difference? Jul 19, 2016
I would agree that variation 1 is a V7. Jul 15, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
I'll have to hop on this next time I'm there! Jul 7, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Seems like a fun variation, I think the starting on the low large flat rail and dynoing straight to the lip would definitely go. I'll have to try it when I get out there again!

Also I'm pretty sure this boulder is just clumped with Umbrella because it'a easier to just find the umbrella boulder first, and it's so close by that it might be confusing/annoying if it were listed as its own area. Jul 7, 2016