Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brad Johnson, John Robinson, Kevin Barcza
Page Views: 1,561 total · 50/month
Shared By: John Robinson on Jun 26, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

This climb starts below the Secret Sauce Ledge and has a reachy crux just before you exit onto the Secret Sauce Ledge. The next crux is above the Secret Sauce Ledge and is interesting jams under an overhang. The next crux has some great stemming.

Location

Starts on the ground (not on the Secret Sauce Ledge) and between "Big Gulp" (which is on the Secret Sauce Ledge) and "Too much good stuff" (which is also on the ground).

Protection

12 bolts with two Mussy hooks at the top. 

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10 Comments

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Mike Bonvino
Nevada City, CA
 
Mike Bonvino   Nevada City, CA
 
If you like 10s, hit this one up for sure. This climb has a splash of everything - smeary sidepulls, an undercling or two, offwidth, crack jams, balancy stuff, all in the 10 range and pretty positive. A cruxy part on both the lower and upper section and then peters out at the top out. Really enjoyable Nov 12, 2016
Peter J
Ford E-150, wherever
Peter J   Ford E-150, wherever
This climb can be really dirty after it has rained. lots of dirt in the cracks/on holds made it not much fun on the lower section especially Jan 15, 2018
Matt Baker
Matt Baker  
6 or 7th bolt is missing its hardware, leaving the leader with ledge fall potential. Oct 8, 2018
dicwu
dicwu  
Does anyone know why that bolt was chopped? Great route but bolt chopped at one of the cruxes with a ledge fall. Oct 28, 2018
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
  5.10c
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
  5.10c
The description Says "(be sure you are careful with the sharp left foothold at the second bolt as it is loose and small, but don't remove it)". This sharp left foothold was either removed or came out some time ago. Makes the first crux move a little harder. Oct 28, 2018
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
  5.10c
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
  5.10c
dicwu: Has the bolt been removed or is just it's hardware missing, as Matt Baker says? Oct 28, 2018
Ava C.
San Francisco, CA
  5.10c
Ava C.   San Francisco, CA
  5.10c
There's only a bolt left, the nut and hanger are missing. That's right where the crux is, so I got lowered and climbed up again with a stick clip to get the next quickdraw in so I could finish the climb. Oct 28, 2018
dicwu
dicwu  
Thanks for the clarification Ava & for asking John. I actually just belayed someone on the route and didn’t scope it out, so assumed it had been chopped. I climbed it with the hanger in place about a month ago, and it seemed in good condition. Fun route so bummed that someone took that down. Anyone know why? Oct 29, 2018
Kyle Bishop
Nevada City, CA
  5.10d
Kyle Bishop   Nevada City, CA  
  5.10d
@dicwu It's likely that it simply fell off, though it is possible that a newer climber saw it was loose and thought it safer to remove it entirely. I'm doubtful someone intentionally decided to chop and/or remove a bolt that high up.

@john I really like this climb myself and have a bunch of Powers 5-piece bolts. Would be more than happy to replace the missing hanger with a 5-piece so we don't have to worry about loose hangers on it anymore :) Just let me know and I'll stick one on, though I probably won't be back to the emeralds for another 2 weeks. Oct 29, 2018 · Temporary Report
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
  5.10c
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
  5.10c
Kyle: Great, do whatever it takes Oct 29, 2018