Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brad Johnson, John Robinson
Page Views: 1,208 total · 31/month
Shared By: Brad J on Oct 23, 2015 with updates from Mostafa Noori
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details


Climb starts on the right side of the arete. Move up past two bolts to left side of arete. The crux is from the second to fourth bolts. Just getting on and moving off the ramp above the second bolt is "interesting". If it seems awkward try a different way.


Climb is the last climb on the right side of Fast Food Wall on the obvious arete. Easiest approach is to continue up the trail past the base of Kudos cliff left.


11 bolts plus mussey hooks at the top.


Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
An awesome climb that will challenge your bag of tricks- some arete climbing, some crimpy face climbing, a short dihedral, and a splitter hand crack for a few moves.

The climbing itself was some of my favorite at the Emeralds. But be warned, because of all the features and the fact that your belayer can't see you after the 4th bolt, it can feel pretty sketchy at times. Also, there was a ton of growth/dirt on key holds since this climb doesn't look well trafficked. Sep 26, 2016
Brad J
Brad J  

Thx for the comments.

We agree and that's why it got it's name...:-)

Brad and John Sep 26, 2016
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
Definitely an appropriate name!

This route- and everywhere else at The Emeralds- was very well bolted. This was my first trip there, but I'll be coming back for more :) Sep 26, 2016
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
If you get into the growth and dirt, you are off route, especially at the jam crack. There you can easily cheat and stay right in the crud but why would you want to avoid a beautiful jam crack? Nov 24, 2016
Truckee, CA
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
I gotta disagree, this thing seemed super forced. Definitely have to try to avoid the choss gully to the right. Looked like the line could have gone left after the second bolt ramp-hump. Sep 25, 2017
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
The climb is forced in the sense that it is conecting a bunch of cool features with sometimes awkward climbing. But it's definitely out of the ordinary compared to most face climbs in the area. I thought the route was fun and I didn't have to get in the munge/choss on the right. Sep 26, 2017
Brad J
Brad J  
Interesting comments on this climb. While the climb could have gone more left we wanted to include the crack because it's not often that you get more than a jam or two at the Ems. As it is bolted now you do not have to move into the dirt to get to the crack, but we didn't clean that area of the climb much so it might be hard to tell where it actually goes. Next time we're out we'll go up and clean it and then wait for feedback before we rethink the bolting. This is a tough one to assess because the stars are all over the place and the truth is, we really like this climb. Kelley's comment is spot on, there are no other climbs like it at the Ems. Oct 18, 2017
We weren't to crazy about this one. Guess it worth doing once but wouldn't get on it again. Lower end as far as quality goes at Emeralds. Maybe Too Much Rope Drag would have been a more appropriate name. Aug 19, 2018
I think the setters of this route are creative geniuses. Super fun! Nov 5, 2018