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Routes in Sunnyside

BLM S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Baccaus Goes Climbing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Continental S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dingo the Gringo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Enganche T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear or Common Sense S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kokopeli's Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Machete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mini Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Some Humans Ain't Human S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Suppress the Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Velvet Revolution S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Velveteen T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Virgin Bolter Tag Team S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weed Eater S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 148 total · 5/month
Shared By: Lafroy on Apr 2, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Located to the right of Continental. Slightly overhanging somewhat flaring finger to handcrack. Bouldery start. Follow until crack stops then climb past chicken heads to anchors. somewhat sandbagged, rrg.com consensus rating between 5.10b/c.

Protection

.5-1 cams; sling chicken heads on the way to fixed anchors strongly advised to protect against a ground fall

Photos

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Daniel James
NYCish, NY.
5.10b
Daniel James   NYCish, NY.
5.10b
Be advised it's listed by consensus at 5.10b on rrc.com and I'd be inclined to place it more toward grade as well.

Also, beware of the chickenheads, my second stepped on one and it popped right off and nearly hit me (helmets are wonderful). I wouldn't put much faith in them, especially for protection.

I'm surprised people seem to like it so much but perhaps I just was left with as sour taste by the popping chickenheads and it being distinctly harder (at the start of the crack where I was conscious of groundfall) than I was wanting or expecting it to be. May 21, 2017
Lafroy
  5.9+
Lafroy  
  5.9+
Hey Daniel, fair assessment of the headiness. I addressed the consensus rating of rrc.com in my description but chose to stick with the grading that was on the wall (which I assume is the assessment of the one who did the FA-but I could be wrong). Too bad to hear about the popping chicken heads...glad you were wearing a helmet-hope you second has been a little more aware of the contraindications of chicken heads. 10b/c was definitely above my level of trad at the time-it could not have been fun to have gone through the hell of putting it up and then have rocks whiz by you as your head while belaying. Hope your Climbing has been sick since that climb (ps: not my favorite climb either, but I struggled through it so it has a place in my heart anyway.) May 19, 2018

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