All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Burgers & Fries

Genetically Superior Neighbor

Name: Genetically Superior Neighbor
Rating: 1.9

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Burgers and Fries

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Foot in the Gravy S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Asian Princess Aint No Shortie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Asshole of November, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Battle of the Bulge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bilbo Baggins T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Burgers and Fries T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Catch Me T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Catch Me Quick(er) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Catch You T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Councillor's Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dusty Eyes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Exit Stage Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Exit Stage Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	False Friends T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	French Leave S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Frodo's First Step T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Frying Brownies T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Genetically Superior Neighbor T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gollum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	High Boltage Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jammers' Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Last Moves S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Libya Sucks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lone Rhino S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Move It On Over T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mr. Dressup T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	No Boltage TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Nookie Monster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Over 60 with Asian Assistance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Over Forty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Peaches and Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pine Cones T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pink Panther S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Player’s Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Predator T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Prey (Sarah's Crack) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Rust never sleeps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Short and Sweet T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Smeagol T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Split Personality T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stu's Slab T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Swan Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sweet and Sour T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Switchback S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Three Cool Kats T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Truckstop Jam (AKA Jim's Jam) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	White Line Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Who Needs Bolts T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Who Needs Footwork T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Who Needs Pro? T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wisecrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type:	Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	George Hanzel, Joe Turley (2008)
Page Views:	1,023 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Ryan Lynne on Mar 7, 2016
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Follow a large ramp up to a bolt. Clip this bolt and delicately move across into a left leaning finger crack. This is the hardest crux of the route and the climbing is easier above. This crack ends and there is one more easier crux getting onto the slab above. The rest of this route is pure slab climbing and is very similar to the top of the neighboring route Peaches and Cream.

Climbing straight up to the first bolt ups the grade on the route. Staying high on the ramp and traversing over to the first bolt is probably what the was original intended at the 5.11a grade.

Bring some gear to protect the cracks.