Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton
Page Views: 285 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Aug 26, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This is an interesting route that requires a tough pull to get off the ground. After making crux moves to get going, make another hard move to step right to an easier groove, move more easily up to another crux (layback), and finish up on easier cracks. The protection is plentiful and easy to place from good stances.

(The route name and first ascent information were obtained from "Squamish Select" by Marc Bourdon.)

Location

This route is about ten feet right of Libya Sucks and right before a fence demarcating private property. Look for an off-fingers crack at the start with poor feet.

Protection

Standard rack. I used medium nuts and cams from a blue Alien to #3 Camalot. There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top.

Photos

Tess Wendel
Seattle, WA
 
Tess Wendel   Seattle, WA
 
The 5.10 part of this is the one move off the ground then definitely 5.8 climbing with good pro. Aug 23, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
I felt the crux was the stemmy bit in the middle, unless this route is being confused with Libya Sucks. Sep 30, 2017