Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft|
|FA:||FA: Ken Trout FFA: Paul Horak, Peter Prandoni, and Doug Bridgers|
|Page Views:||611 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||jesse punsal on Oct 31, 2015|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Wilderness Area Details
"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLMs regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302 blm.gov/nv/st/en/fo/ely_fie…, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.
DescriptionSequestered follows the right of 2 prominent right-angling crack system on the left side of Questa Dome. These are clear from the trail. You'll find beautiful rock, wonderful climbing, and some thin sections on this adventurous climb. The route description is in both guidebooks, but recommend splitting the pitches as below:
Rope up on the left side of Questa Dome, below a large left-facing corner, about 50' left of the start of Question of Balance.
P1: (190' 5.10- same as Questar) Start in a large left facing corner before transferring [left] to the dirty crack at ~20'. Follow easy climbing up and right (optional belay in here) till finding a left angling hand traverse crack leading to a small roof. After the roof, traverse left on face holds to a hidden bolt (upgraded recently) then up to the layback crack. Belay at the tree.
P2: (135' 5.11+)[Paul Horak's original topo gives this pitch 5.11- while Rock Climbing NM gives it 5.12- the consensus seems to be about in the middle.] Step right from the tree and make a couple slab moves heading up and aiming for the roof. Traverse right under the roof till you can clip a bolt and turn it. Move left aiming for a second bolt and fun vertical crack climbing (50m belay). After the vertical climbing follow the ever thinning right angling crack till it becomes a seam. Keep it together through the harder moves above your small stoppers and RPs for the last six feet till to a good ledge at the bottom of the large right facing corner with some fixed gear.
P3: (160' 5.12-) Head up crack and chicken heads till you can commit to big holds on the arete to the left. As the holds run out mantle and clip a 1/4" bolt above your head. The thin flake I used to make this move flexed a bit, you'll know it when you see it. The climbing following these four bolts up and then right is definitely the technical crux, put your slab face on if you've climbed clean to here because it's THIN. After the bolts move back into the crack where there are two pins in the thin part and gear up higher. The guide says to belay on gear above the pins but it seems like an unnecessary hanging belay. Instead continue onto the 5.8 R climbing on chicken heads till you can move right to a small ledge with a crack for gear and a large interesting looking water gutter crack to its right.
I think two of the four bolts have been replaced on this pitch and the others felt solid when I hung on them.
P4: (5.8) I followed the dirty crack corner with a few loose rocks in it above the belay. The dike to the right looked fun and clean but unpredictable. After about 25' of climbing go up on easy ground till you feel like stopping.