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Questa Dome Rock Climbing
Routes in Questa Dome
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Aero Questa T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ancient Ones, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Another Pretty Face T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Con Questa Libre T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jonny Questa T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Questando La Via Sin Arboles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Questar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Question of Balance T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Questionable Timing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sequestered T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tostadas Comquesta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 9,947 ft |
| GPS: | 36.795, -105.534 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 32,083 total · 192/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jun 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's (blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) (bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG (nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020
Details
Effective November 16th, 2020, please do not travel into New Mexico to climb.
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Description
Questa Dome proper is the centerpiece of multi-pitch climbing in the Taos area, with ~5 pitch routes on beautiful white granite. The climbs here range from 5.10-5.12, and have quality crack/slab climbing in the same style as parts of the S. Platte and the Organs. Questa Dome has a deserved reputation for runout & scary slabs, but it is so much more varied than just that! Most climbs follow cracks or seams for much of their length with slabs and thin-face sections linking these features. Most climbs in the center of the Dome tackle the intimidating roof that looms at the 350' level. And above the roof-- well you'll just have to find out what's up there! For years, Questa had a reputation for old scary bolts, but most have been replaced by now.
Season: May through October, typically. The cliff gets a lot of sun, and can be hot on summer days, or warm enough in spring or fall if it's not windy.
Descent: Top out the dome, scramble up the ridge a little ways, and walk-off to the east, down a faint trail and contour back to the base of the dome. If you have to bail from any of these, you'll need 2 ropes or will need to leave gear and build intermediate stations.
Guidebooks:
A guidebook or at least a topo is recommended. 'Taos Rock' and 'Rock Climbing: New Mexico' are both excellent guides to the area, and both include the best climbs. 'Taos Rock' includes 2 or 3 more routes that aren't in RC:NM. There are some lines/variations that are not in any guidebook.
Season: May through October, typically. The cliff gets a lot of sun, and can be hot on summer days, or warm enough in spring or fall if it's not windy.
Descent: Top out the dome, scramble up the ridge a little ways, and walk-off to the east, down a faint trail and contour back to the base of the dome. If you have to bail from any of these, you'll need 2 ropes or will need to leave gear and build intermediate stations.
Guidebooks:
A guidebook or at least a topo is recommended. 'Taos Rock' and 'Rock Climbing: New Mexico' are both excellent guides to the area, and both include the best climbs. 'Taos Rock' includes 2 or 3 more routes that aren't in RC:NM. There are some lines/variations that are not in any guidebook.
Getting There
From Taos: Take NM 522 north past the village of Questa. 6 miles past Questa take a right at a sign to El Rito. Go just under a mile to where the road turns (at a house) to dirt. Veer right and then climb up the steep road for just under a mile farther. High clearance is needed to drive the last 0.5 mile (or park and walk this). At the T-junction, go right, and continue for 0.2 miles to a small parking area and trailhead on the left.
The trailhead is an ok place to camp.
Approach:
The trail climbs through the pine forest and soon meets a beautiful creek. As the trail gets steeper, the dome is obvious on the left. Stay on the trail until about level with the base, then traverse left to the base of the rock. This will take 45 minutes or so.
The trailhead is an ok place to camp.
Approach:
The trail climbs through the pine forest and soon meets a beautiful creek. As the trail gets steeper, the dome is obvious on the left. Stay on the trail until about level with the base, then traverse left to the base of the rock. This will take 45 minutes or so.
Classic Climbing Routes at Questa Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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