Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in Questa Dome
|Ancient Ones, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Another Pretty Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Jonny Questa T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Questando la via sin arboles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Questar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Question of Balance T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Questionable Timing T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R|
|Sequestered T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Tostadas Comquesta T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Kevin Boyko, Nick Levin, Peter Yeo|
|Page Views:||1,392 total, 27/month|
|Shared By:||K. Boyko on Aug 16, 2013|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Wilderness Area Details
"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLMs regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302 blm.gov/nv/st/en/fo/ely_fie…, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.
DescriptionEdited after it went completely free:
This climb may be considered new or a large variation. Either way it offers excellent varied climbing on consistent grades.
Pitch one: 5.11+, 60m:
Start at the giant obvious dihedral. Same start as "Tostadas Comquesta." Get in the angling right corner. From under the mini roof, layback it left (not right, which is "tostadas") follow the dihedral right until it gets to a decent ledge. At this ledge punch it left to the 12ft overhung face on dark orange rock. Climb out left on a jug and mantle to find a spanking new 3 bolt anchor. (FULL ROPE LENGTH PITCH is bitchinnn! or break it up under the small roof)
Pitch 2: 5.12 PG13/R? 200ft:
Slab it up directly up the thin face. Tiny cam/tricam protects the first pocket. Swag the rusty pin out right. Don't fall on this! Please...
Now tread left to the small angle jutting out of the wall. It's pretty run out and VERY thin. If you punt and the pin holds you may swing 30ft off the huge dihedral, if it doesn't you may decapitate your belayer... yeah...
Climb to the ledge, protect it, and climb continue up to the giant overhang past a shiny new hand drilled bolt. Just for you.
At the overhang traverse right until your under the huge corner.
(again full rope pitch or break it up at the overhang
Pitch 3: 5.12 to 12+, 70ft:
From what I understand this pitch is called Questober? I was told it had not gone free, but all hearsay. Climb up the techie overhung face into the overhung dihedral. Unless you are 9 years old: the crack is less-than-fingers. It's all trixie hobbit and such to stem up it, match a pinch on the left and jump left into another overhung even less-than-fingers dihedral. WAT? YEAH! I put a piton in this dihedral for you fools and for my piece of mind. Build an anchor at a small tree after the lip.
Edit: Piton is gone do to frost wedging or angry local. Use a 00 or 000 C3, or 00 TCU. It's small.
If you just climbed this, feel free to tie the rope on your back and free solo the bomber chicken heads. It's pretty solid and has a lot of ledges if you dun goof.
Or rope up....
A FEW NOTES:
-Might be PG13, but I'd rather not sandbag the safety rating. So R it stays.
-Like I said the last pitch may be Questober 11+? Acording to the 2006 Falcon Guide, It does not appear in Foley's Taos Rock. Felt way harder than any 11+ I've climbed.
-What I envisioned on the last pitch was to climb the big overhang directly over pitch 2. I rapped to check it out and it's hard, like real hard. And would need a lot of bolts as it's straight up 5.14 for 20 feet. I don't got time for that!
Someone go bolt it.
-bolts were put in on lead, free climbing or on solo aid. Hand drill.