Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Kevin Boyko, Nick Levin, Peter Yeo|
|Page Views:||1,448 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||K. Boyko on Aug 16, 2013|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Wilderness Area Details
"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLMs regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302blm.gov/nv/st/en/fo/ely_fie…, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.
DescriptionEdited after it went completely free:
This climb may be considered new or a large variation. Either way it offers excellent varied climbing on consistent grades.
Pitch one: 5.11+, 60m:
Start at the giant obvious dihedral. Same start as "Tostadas Comquesta." Get in the angling right corner. From under the mini roof, layback it, go left (not right, which is "tostadas") follow the dihedral right until it gets to a decent ledge. At this ledge punch it left to the 12ft overhung face on dark orange rock. Climb out left on a jug and mantle to find a bolt anchor. (FULL ROPE LENGTH PITCH is bitchin or break it up under the small roof)
Pitch 2: 5.11+ PG13/R? 200ft:
Slab it up directly up the thin face. Tiny cam/tricam protects the first pocket. Swag the rusty pin out right.
Now tread left to the small angle jutting out of the wall. It's pretty run out and VERY thin. If you punt and the pin holds you may swing 30ft off the huge dihedral, if it doesn't you may decapitate your belayer...
Climb to the ledge, protect it, and continue towards the giant overhang past a shiny new hand drilled bolt. Just for you.
At the overhang traverse right until your under the huge corner.
Pitch 3: 5.12 to 12+, 70ft:
From what I understand this pitch is called Questober? I was told it had not gone free, but all hearsay. Climb up the techie overhung face into the overhung dihedral. Unless you are 9 years old: the crack is less-than-fingers. It's all trixie hobbit and such to stem up it, match a pinch on the left and jump left into another overhung even less-than-fingers dihedral. (Use a 00 or 000 C3, or 00 TCU. It's small)
Build an anchor at a small tree after the lip.
If you just climbed this, feel free to tie the rope on your back and free solo the bomber chicken heads. It's pretty solid and has a lot of ledges if you dun goof.
Or rope up....
-Might be PG13, but I'd rather not sandbag the safety rating. So R it stays.