Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Kevin Boyko, Nick Levin, Peter Yeo
Page Views: 2,584 total · 26/month
Shared By: Kevin Boyko on Aug 16, 2013
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Description

Edited after it went completely free:

This climb may be considered new or a large variation. Either way it offers excellent varied climbing on consistent grades.

Pitch 1: 5.11+, 60m:
Start at the giant obvious dihedral. Same start as "Tostadas Comquesta." Get in the angling right corner. From under the mini roof, layback it, go left (not right, which is "tostadas") follow the dihedral right until it gets to a decent ledge. At this ledge punch it left to the 12ft overhung face on dark orange rock. Climb out left on a jug and mantle to find a bolt anchor. (full 60 meter pitch is great or break it up under the small roof).

Pitch 2: 5.11+ PG13 200ft:
Slab it up directly up the thin face. Tiny cam/tricam protects the first pocket. Swag the rusty buttonhead out right.
Now tread left to the small feature jutting out of the wall. It's pretty run out and very thin. If you punt and the pin holds you may swing 30ft off the huge dihedral.

(UPDATE: The beginning of this pitch now has an additional bolt through the crux and the old buttonhead has been replaced thanks to Josh Smith and Jason Halladay. There is still some runout climbing on the easier top, but it is much safer.)

Climb to the ledge, protect it, and continue towards the giant overhang past a shiny new hand drilled bolt.
At the overhang traverse right until your under the huge corner.

Pitch 3: 5.12- 70ft:
From what I understand this pitch is called Questober? I was told it had not gone free? Climb up the techie overhung face into the overhung dihedral. Unless you are 9 years old: the crack is less-than-fingers. Stem up, match a pinch on the left and jump left into another overhung even less-than-fingers dihedral. (Use a 00 or 000 C3, or 00 TCU. It's small)
Build an anchor at a small tree after the lip.

If you just climbed this, feel free to tie the rope on your back and free solo the bomber chicken heads. It's pretty solid and has a lot of ledges
or rope up and climb to the top at 5.5.

Walk off.

Location

Start on Tostadas Comquesta. On the large, err huge right facing overhung dihedral in the middle of the cliff.

Protection

Double rack from .4 to 3. Small RPs and less-than-finger cams.
First pitch has bolted anchor
Second pitch has two bolts on the climb, build an anchor.
‚Äč
I climbed it with a 60m.

Photos