Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Paul Horak, Mike Head and David Baltz, 7/5/1979|
|Page Views:||1,919 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Jun 29, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Wilderness Area Details
"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLMs regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302blm.gov/nv/st/en/fo/ely_fie…, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.
DescriptionTostadas Comquesta is likely the easiest of the climbs on the main portion of Questa Dome. Still not to be taken lightly, the crux is somewhat runout over 1/4" bolts; and there are some other tricky sections, like every climb at Questa. Some people don't like this climb too much considering that other alternative climbs at Questa are especially good. Tostadas is also more sheltered from the wind than other climbs at Questa Dome.
Pitch 1: Follow easy cracks right of the big right-leaning right facing corner on the east end of the main face. (5.6) Belay in the corner below the first stepped roof. Most will want to combine this and the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: This pitch follows clean slabs to the right of the main dihedral. Climb up to the roof, undercling and traverse right, step up to a bolt. Climb up to the bigger 2nd roof, undercling and traverse right and head up to a 2 bolt chain anchor below a steep slab. Excellent climbing with unique moves on this pitch, and the traversing might be a little scary for those who aren't used to slabs (5.9+). You can rap from here to the ground with 1 rope.
Pitch 3: Climb clean slab straight up (potential to fall onto belay), passing 2 1/4" bolts to a diagonaling seam (crux, 5.10 PG13; the bolts appear ok, but if you're scared of 30-year old bolts you won't like this part). It's a little spacey between the bolts but not bad by TP/Questa standards. When you reach the seam, small wired stoppers provide pro. Follow this seam up and right and over a bulge until it opens to a hand crack, which has a tricky short 5.10- section with another 1/4" bolt (which you can supplement with gear). Reach a stance belay with some webbing and rap rings. A variation of these last two pitches stays in the right-leaning crack and bypasses the previous belay station- this variation looks bushy.
Pitch 4: Continue up the right angling crack to a big alcove below the obvious roof. Short pitch (5.8). You can continue a little higher and find a more awkward belay if you want to, but if you keep going, you won't reach a good belay ledge without simulclimbing.
Pitch 5: Follow cracks out to the right, bypassing the big roof, until the cracks appear to end in an overhanging slot. Step left on a ledge about 15' below this slot, pull through on steep chickenheads and plates (5.8, PG13). Belay soon up ahead. Easy 5th class on big knobs to the top.
Walk off the east side. If you're thinking of downclimbing, keep walking uphill and north to get to the faint trail.