Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Peter Prandoni and Bruce Holthouse|
|Page Views:||3,391 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Jun 29, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Pitch 1: Begin about 40' right of the start of Question of Balance, or about 10' left of the start of Tostadas Comquesta and a big right-facing corner. [Note this climb is NOT the one with new bolts immediately right of Question's p1- that is a new 5.11 variation start to Question; Pretty Face begins farther right of that start.] Spy the lower left end of the obvious roof to get your bearings. A tricky 5.10- slab move without good pro immediately near you lets you move left to a new bolt [this replaced a partially driven fixed pin here] at the lower left corner of this roof. [You could also climb a direct start to this point-- steeper angling cracks from the left to get to this bolt at 5.10+.] Step left to two twig-like pine "trees", and follow 5.10- cracks and flakes, passing another fixed pin at a face section, and reach a 3-bolt anchor after 150'. Although the guidebooks and the old topo suggest to belay in a lower location, it is better to do as described here. Excellent pitch.
Pitch 2: Traverse left from the belay to the first bolt (potential to fall onto the belay with a 5.10 move or two). The well-protected crux of the climb is the 5.11 slab section between the 1st and 2nd bolts. After the 2nd bolt, the difficulty eases but it's a 25' runout getting to the next bolt. Before you get to the 3rd bolt, you can cut left on an easier but unprotected rail to join Question of Balance pitch 2 finger crack, or continue up the thin face past the 3rd bolt, after which you'll join Question midway through pitch 2 anyway. Follow this 5.9 finger crack up and right to an anchor with bolts & chains. Classic thin face/slab climbing.
Rappel from the p2 anchor to the ground with 2 60m ropes (it will just barely reach); or continue up Question of Balance, which is recommended and the next 2 pitches are great. If you keep going and top out the dome, it should be about 5 pitches total, plus some easy scrambling. Walk off the east side.
A nice topo is found on the Questa Direct page of Gary Clarks Classics collection
The topos in the guidebooks covering Questa Dome are good too.