Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in Questa Dome
|Ancient Ones, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Another Pretty Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Jonny Questa T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Questando la via sin arboles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Questar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Question of Balance T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Questionable Timing T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R|
|Sequestered T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Tostadas Comquesta T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ken Trout, Peter Prandoni, 1979.|
|Page Views:||1,231 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Jun 9, 2010|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Wilderness Area Details
"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLMs regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302 blm.gov/nv/st/en/fo/ely_fie…, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.
DescriptionOne of the more prominent lines at Questa Dome, Questar is a nice climb that deserves more attention. There is interesting climbing on all the pitches, but still some flakiness from lack of traffic. The 3rd and 4th pitches are striking from below, as the left of 2 long continuous diagonal crack systems left of the big roofs on Questa Dome.
The best start is the first two pitches of "Sequestered", described here. One can also use the original first two pitches of "Jonny Questa", which is easier and not as interesting climbing (see the Jonny Questa page for that described).
Begin just up and right of the lowest point of Questa Dome, under a small left facing corner with an 8" crack. There will be a big flat roof about 150' from you, and the first belay is at a tree visible on the upper left part of your view upwards.
Pitch 1: Start up the corner for 20'. Step left on a slab. Climb easy cracks passing some bushes to a stance (optional belay). Angle up and left on an easy hand crack, turn a small roof. You'll pass the giant roof about 20' to its left, where you'll clip a bolt and mantle off a flexing flake. Lieback up the finger crack above. Step left to the tree, belay. (5.10-, 190').
Pitch 2: From the right of the tree, slab straight up and slightly right to an overlap/roof. Hand traverse right along this roof, clip a bolt and turn the roof, and go left on the slab to reach another bolt. Do not take the cracks through the roof up and right, which is "Sequestered". Instead, continue left, step left around an arete (where you'll join the original "Jonny Questa" line) and belay at one of two 6' pine bushes in a left-facing corner. (5.9+, 100')
Pitch 3: Crux pitch. Just above the 2nd pine bush, hand traverse right under on a white face under the a roof to a stance on the arete. Pumpy. (There is a higher roof too- which is the wrong way.) Slab up the narrow prow, passing 1 bolt, and join the hand crack where the higher roof meets the face. Continue up easier cracks, mostly hands, and belay after a while, where convenient. This pitch is something special! (5.11, 150').
Pitch 4: Climb up the right-angling hand and finger cracks in the same system. After a ways, consider moving left to a highly featured low-angle climbing, and belay on a ledge. (5.9+, 180'). 4th class to the top.
There are nice topos in 'Taos Rock' and posted on this site, but I'd recommend breaking the pitches up as described here. This climb is not described in 'RC:NM'.