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Routes in Questa Dome
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Aero Questa T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ancient Ones, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Another Pretty Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Con Questa Libre T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jonny Questa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Questando La Via Sin Arboles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Questar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Question of Balance T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Questionable Timing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sequestered T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tostadas Comquesta T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ken Trout, Peter Prandoni, 1979. |
| Page Views: | 2,177 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jun 9, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting
Details
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
One of the more prominent lines at Questa Dome, Questar is a nice climb that deserves more attention. There is interesting climbing on all the pitches. The 3rd and 4th pitches are striking from below, as the left of 2 long continuous diagonal crack systems left of the big roofs on Questa Dome.
The best start is the first two pitches of "Sequestered", described here. One can also use the original first two pitches of "Jonny Questa", which is easier and not as interesting climbing (see the Jonny Questa page for that described).
Begin just up and right of the lowest point of Questa Dome, under a small left facing corner with an 8" crack. There will be a big flat roof about 150' from you, and the first belay is at a tree visible on the upper left part of your view upwards.
Pitch 1: Start up the corner for 20'. Step left on a slab. Climb easy cracks passing some bushes to a stance (optional belay). Angle up and left on an easy hand crack, turn a small roof. You'll pass the giant roof about 20' to its left, where you'll clip a bolt and mantle off a flexing flake. Lieback up the finger crack above. Step left to the tree, belay. (5.10-, 190').
Pitch 2: From the right of the tree, slab straight up and slightly right to an overlap/roof. Hand traverse right along this roof, clip a bolt and turn the roof, and go left on the slab to reach another bolt. Do not take the cracks through the roof up and right, which is "Sequestered". Instead, continue left, step left around an arete (where you'll join the original "Jonny Questa" line) and belay at one of two 6' pine bushes in a left-facing corner. (5.9+, 100')
Pitch 3: Crux pitch. Just above the 2nd pine bush, hand traverse right on a white face under a roof to a stance on the arete. Has a fixed piton, and is pumpy. Optional belay at the stance on the arete may be a good idea. (There is a higher roof too- which is the wrong way.) Slab up the narrow prow, passing 1 bolt, and join the hand crack where the higher roof meets the face. Continue up easier cracks, mostly hands, and belay after a while, where convenient. This pitch is something special! (5.11, 150').
Pitch 4: Climb up the right-angling hand and finger cracks in the same system. After a ways, consider moving left to a highly featured low-angle climbing, and belay on a ledge. (5.9+, 180'). 4th class to the top.
There are nice topos in 'Taos Rock' and Horaks' topo posted on this site, but I'd recommend breaking the pitches up as described here. This climb is not described in 'RC:NM'.
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