Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches|
|FA:||2002, Greg Swift and Sharon Dogruel|
|Page Views:||1,662 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Swift on Jun 16, 2014 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
1. Clip a piton 10 feet off the ground, move up and right across some small rounded overhangs. Continue up the crack that leads to the smaller dihedral. Pull up and past a small tree to the next level of slab. Climb the wall of the dihedral to reach a ramp with a thin seam and little gear/no gear for 20 feet. Climb the ramp to where it steepens and place gear in a crack before making awkward moves to reach a 2-piton belay which can be backed up with a #2 cam. 160 feet, 5.9. (If you arrive at a tree with rappel slings, you are on the rappel route, not the climbing route.)
2. Step up on friction and continue up small cracks. Climb a wide v-slot to gain a face with thin cracks and small pro. Traverse up and left across the slab to gain a large flake, #2 cam. Pull up and over the flake to gain right facing corner with a large block. Look up to find 3 bolts on the face. Climb the corner/face clipping bouts to a comfortable belay at 2 pitons. 160 feet, 5.10.
3. Step up on blocks to reach the bolt. Make thin face moves to pull up onto a slab/ledge. Cross the slab up and right to reach a wide right facing corner (not visible from the belay). Stem the corner working up and into the base of a finger and hands crack. Sustained stemming and jamming leads up the crack to a ramp with right facing dihedral and trees. Clip a pin and move left and up a second crack/ramp system for 15 feet. Place gear high and then traverse right to regain the crack in the dihedral. step on or over a tree to clip a pin. Continue up the flared crack past the third pin to reach the top of the crack. Look right for a small belay ledge with one bolt and a slingable horn, a thin crack left of the bolt provides gear placements to back up the bolt. 100 feet, 5.10+.
4. Traverse left along a thin crack with little/no gear. At the end of the crack make a reach to clip the first of two bolts. Make delicate moves on polished face/slab to the second bolt. Step down and left to reach a seam which you follow to the overhang. Place solid gear, #1-2 cams, in the base, middle and above the roof. Make long reaches to gain large holds. Work your feet up and pull on to the face above the overhang. Follow a wide crack for 20 feet to a treed sloping belay ledge with 1 bolt on the right wall of a left-facing dihedral. 80 feet, 5.10.
5. Walk left to a gnarly tree to gain access to the finger crack splitting this smooth face, which is prominently visible from the approach trail. Climb the crack and face holds for about 50 - 70 feet placing small cams and nuts. From the end of the finger crack, look for bolt 20 feet up and right above a flared crescent shaped crack. From the first bolt look up 20-30 ft to spot the second bolt. Climb the face using edges and crystalized pockets to gain the second bolt. Pull up on to a tree covered ledge and belay 110 feet, 5.10.
6. Follow the left arête to the top of the ridge. 100 feet, 5.4.
Descent: The usual: Scramble northeast along the boulder-strewn ridge, then walk down east through the forest. Caught in the rain? Large trees on alternate sides of the climb provide a 2-rope rappel route to the ground. (Rappel stations are marked Ron the photo; often you cant see the slings on these trees from the climb.)