Questando la via sin arboles
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Routes in Questa Dome
|Ancient Ones, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Another Pretty Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Jonny Questa T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Questando la via sin arboles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Questar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Question of Balance T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Questionable Timing T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R|
|Sequestered T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Tostadas Comquesta T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||2002, Greg Swift and Sharon Dogruel|
|Page Views:||555 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Swift on Jun 16, 2014|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Wilderness Area Details
"Climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors". The BLM has the authority to manage climbing activities in Wilderness Areas. Although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, BLM may require a permit for climbing and activities associated with climbing on public lands. As established by the Wilderness Act and the BLMs regulations on management of designated Wilderness Areas found in 43 CFR 6302 blm.gov/nv/st/en/fo/ely_fie…, climbers or others may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors. Appendix 1 lists some of the relevant BLM authorities that apply to climbing in Wilderness Areas.
DescriptionFrom the base of the south face, walk down left to the toe of the dome, then walk up left 150 feet along the base of the west side. There is a huge left-facing dihedral (with a dramatic hand crack on its right wall) 100 feet above the ground. This is NOT the climb. Look for a smaller left-facing dihedral, with a few trees, 50 feet left of the huge dihedral, and also about 100 feet above the ground. Start directly below this smaller dihedral.
1. Clip a piton 10 feet off the ground, cross some small rounded overhangs, and continue up the crack that leads to the smaller dihedral. Avoiding all the trees in the dihedral, go up the right side of the dihedral, following ramps and a thin crack to a 2-piton belay. 160 feet, 5.9. (If you arrive at a tree with rappel slings, you are on the rappel route, not the climbing route.)
2. Step up on friction and continue up small cracks. After a wide section, go up and gradually left, eventually passing 3 bolts, to a comfortable belay at 2 pitons. 160 feet, 5.10.
3. Up past a bolt, then up and slightly right to the base of a steep, long, vertical crack with pitons. Climb this crack. At its top, look right for a small belay ledge with one bolt and a slingable horn. 100 feet, 5.10+.
4. Traverse left along a thin crack, then past 2 bolts, to a short, overhanging challenge. 20 feet above this challenge is a sloping belay ledge with 1 bolt on the right wall of a left-facing dihedral. 80 feet, 5.10.
5. Walk left to a gnarly tree to gain access to the finger crack splitting this smooth face, which is prominently visible from the approach trail. Climb the crack. From its end, edge up (generally left) past 2 bolts to a good ledge. 110 feet, 5.10.
6. Follow the left arête to the top of the ridge. 100 feet, 5.4.
LocationThis climb is on the far left (west) side of the dome. Pitches 2, 3, and 5 are visible from the approach trail. Pitch 5 ascends the clean face with a sharp left edge at the upper left corner of the dome.
Descent: The usual: Scramble northeast along the boulder-strewn ridge, then walk down east through the forest. Caught in the rain? Large trees on alternate sides of the climb provide a 2-rope rappel route to the ground. (Rappel stations are marked Ron the photo; often you cant see the slings on these trees from the climb.)