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Routes in October Wall

Han Shot First S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nuffin' But a Puffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saskatoon Slab Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Third Wave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vanishing Act T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Connor Myers, Oct. 21, 2015
Page Views: 561 total · 20/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Oct 21, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Begin 10 feet left of Vanishing Act between two cracks and below a high first bolt. An optional medium cam protects the moves to the first bolt.

The start is directly in middle of the wall, not in the corner on the left. Work up to a tricky mantle to a few thin moves to gain jugs under the roof. Traverse left under the roof until it is possible to pull up and over to a decent stance. One final crux guards the top and a lower-off anchor.

Alternatively, once you reach the anchors continue straight up over the bulge with small cams to the end of Vanishing Act and enjoy the big sunny ledge above.

Repeat attempts seem to have found beta which has softened the grade a bit.

Location

10 feet left of Vanishing Act.

Protection

Glue-in bolts with an optional cam down low.

Lower off anchors.

Very easy TR setup by hiking around left and traversing in to the anchors.

Photos

Derek Doucet  
 
Surprisingly good little pitch. It doesn't look like much from below, but climbs quite well. A nice find! Dec 7, 2015

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