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Routes in October Wall

Han Shot First S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nuffin' But a Puffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saskatoon Slab Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Third Wave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vanishing Act T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Seth Maciejowski, Kris Fiore 10/31/2015
Page Views: 492 total, 20/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Nov 2, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb the obvious arete on the right side of the October Wall to easy, but dirty lichen climbing. The arete is found just before you head up into the alcove of "Nuffin' but a Peanut". 9 bolts to anchor chains.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

june m
elmore ,vt
june m   elmore ,vt
I still think the anchor should be way lower. And skip the slab Jun 5, 2016
Hey Derek,
Glad you got on it. The old anchor was in a crap spot for lowering off. You always ended up around the corner over near nuffin but a peanut so the rope got roughed up and you couldn't clean the pitch. Kris added that other anchor, so I figured it would simplify things just to join his line... Dec 7, 2015
Derek Doucet
  5.9
Derek Doucet  
  5.9
Really cool pitch with great rock and a very fun crux sequence. I'd give it three stars if it had an independent anchor below the 3rd class slab. It's not that I mind rambling up the slab to the other anchor, but it makes things hard on the rope for TRing or pulling. Anyway, a quality pitch! Perhaps uncharacteristically soft for the grade? Dec 7, 2015
Fixed the stuck bolt next to bolt 6 and removed one of the bolts at the original anchor point. Use Kris' glue in anchor above and left once you top out the arete. Enjoy! Nov 16, 2015