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Routes in October Wall

Han Shot First S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nuffin' But a Puffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saskatoon Slab Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Third Wave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vanishing Act T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Connor Myers, Kristofer Fiore Oct. 21, 2015
Page Views: 456 total, 18/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Oct 21, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Standard rack with emphasis on small gear despite the large appearance. Make your way up the chimney over various ledges with hidden although solid gear until it is possible to squeeze through a break on the left. Work left and up onto a ridge with small gear. Continue straight up the face through a short but tricky crux on small gear as the angle eventually lowers into a knobby featured slab. End at a chain anchor.

Location

The obvious large chimney about 40 feet from the final logging road.

Protection

Gear is a little tricky but it's all there. Emphasis on small cams!

Chain anchors.

NOTE: At least a 60 meter rope is required to toprope although it is possible to rap to the anchors on top of Han Shot First and get to the ground in two rappels if your rope was shorter.

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
Someone stole the carabiners. Unfortunately, I won't be back up there until Fall so if someone feels like putting some bigger quick links on there that'd be sweet. Jun 7, 2016
june m
elmore ,vt
june m   elmore ,vt
Did someone steal the biners off the chains or does it need quick links, horrible pull Jun 5, 2016
doliver
  5.7+ PG13
doliver  
  5.7+ PG13
Fun climbing! moves off the flake above the lower anchors are surprisingly good and linked with han shot first would be a quality full length route also. May 7, 2016