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Routes in October Wall

Han Shot First S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nuffin' But a Puffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saskatoon Slab Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Third Wave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vanishing Act T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Seth Maciejowski
Page Views: 375 total, 15/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Oct 31, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Highly recommended. If it cleans up it should become quite popular.

Make a powerful but well protected move to get up to the beautiful right rising crack finding just the right place to pull up. Trust me, there is a sweet spot in there. Dream the crack was 100 feet long before continuing up to the ledge above to place gear conveniently in your best handhold. Work up through and above the right-facing corner to a stance that is currently a bit dirty. Burn straight up finding one small nut on the way. It's possible to chicken out here and traverse left if you get the willies on little gear.

Originally lead to a bolted anchor atop Third Wave which has since been removed, it's now possible to continue straight up to the chain anchors for the top of Saskatoon Slab.

Location

Ten feet right of Vanishing Act and Left of the line of bolts up the arete. Aim for the right-rising crack.

Protection

Standard rack, emphasis on finger sized cams. Tricams could be helpful too. Should be solid at the grade, some small runouts but the gear is quality.

Anchors at the top of Saskatoon Slab.

Photos

A good trad lead that will require a bit more work with a wire brush at the top of the right facing corner to be acceptable to most. Way to go Kris for uncovering a pure trad lead at the 82! Nov 2, 2015