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Early Access
Routes in Left Book
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Beelzebub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Cottontail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dog, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hiatus T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Out (aka Lost Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manifest Destiny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Well Hung T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Whale Rider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Whale T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wide Whale T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zingando T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | Trad, 185 ft (56 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.40708, -105.5356 |
| FA: | Mike Lewis & Sara Rider |
| Page Views: | 1,853 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Lewis on Oct 2, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is one of the topout options that goes to the summit above Paperback Ledge. I think it is well worth the effort and adds another 1-2 pitches to the routes leading up to ledge. I have used this as an extension to White Whale multiple times with my guiding clients, and they have enjoyed it.
My guess is that someone else has done this route at some point in Lumpy's history.
Pitches: it can be done in one pitch. Breaking it up into two pitches reduces drag and offers the opportunity to take advantage of a great, exposed belay ledge with plentiful gear options, and it breaks the pitch into its natural two sections.
Location
From the top of White Whale, look straight up and there is a 15' overhanging OW slot that leads into some black streaks, that leads left into a left-facing dihedral. The dihedral trends left and up toward a roof with a large block.
Don't be scared of the "OW" in my description. There are really nice, incut jugs to pull over the small overhang with.
The crux is about 30' up, there is a left-leaning, hand-jam/layback move that takes you over toward the dihedral.
You can end the first pitch at the top of the dihedral before breaking into the lower angled climbing above the blocked overhang. For the 2nd half - choose your own adventure up the lichened slab.
Descent: walk off to the north into the gully, curve SW with the gully, and meet back up with the trail that comes off Paperback Ledge.
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