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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Wolfe/Nutting 2015
Page Views: 429 total · 13/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

P1 (5.10c) 9 bolts/110' (first pitch:***): Climb past 3 bolts through the initial face, then up easier terrain to the steep head-wall. Engaging climbing brings you to the crux just below the anchors. Pull the small roof to the anchor stance.
P2 (5.8) 11 bolts/110': Climb up and right on ramp to a short headwall, climb through that to easier ground. Continue up the featured head-wall to the anchors.

Location [Edit]

From the platform that marks the start of Mimosa, scramble up to a triangular wooden ledge above. Set up belay, then continue up the easy ramp to the first bolt.

Protection [Edit]

11 bolts, Mussy hooks.

2 rappels with a 70-meter rope.

Photos

Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11a
Yep, 3 stars for pitch 1. Great first pitch but question the rock one of the bolts is placed in. Sep 30, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Thanks, Jeff! I will check the bolts next trip up there. Sep 30, 2015
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.11a
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.11a
A fantastic rock climb with a super sweet finish. It's all there, but beta intensive. Fully agree with Jeff's 5.11a assessment as well. May 22, 2016

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