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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Wolfe/Nutting 2015
Page Views: 401 total, 15/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

P1 (5.10c) 9 bolts/110' (first pitch:***): Climb past 3 bolts through the initial face, then up easier terrain to the steep head-wall. Engaging climbing brings you to the crux just below the anchors. Pull the small roof to the anchor stance.
P2 (5.8) 11 bolts/110': Climb up and right on ramp to a short headwall, climb through that to easier ground. Continue up the featured head-wall to the anchors.

Location

From the platform that marks the start of Mimosa, scramble up to a triangular wooden ledge above. Set up belay, then continue up the easy ramp to the first bolt.

Protection

11 bolts, Mussy hooks.

2 rappels with a 70-meter rope.

Photos

Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.11a
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.11a
A fantastic rock climb with a super sweet finish. It's all there, but beta intensive. Fully agree with Jeff's 5.11a assessment as well. May 22, 2016
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Thanks, Jeff! I will check the bolts next trip up there. Sep 30, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11a
Yep, 3 stars for pitch 1. Great first pitch but question the rock one of the bolts is placed in. Sep 30, 2015