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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Guilty as Charged S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
If I Did It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: R. Ziegler, M. Nutting, 5/18, TD
Page Views: 76 total · 14/month
Shared By: Rick Ziegler on Jun 4, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The clean, left hand, left leaning chimney.  Follow a 3rd class rib to the first bolt.  The chimney tightens down at the second bolt.  Third is a bit hard to see while leading but can be felt on the right side of the chimney.  A cruxy move leads to easier chimenying above. This route is somewhat hard to clean while leading, better to have the second clean it on TR.

Location

Follow directions to OJ buttress from the parking lot used to access Three Hour Arete, etc.  From the large orange roof at the OJ Buttress, follow a faint trail up and right.  Do not use the fixed cord for Jersey Tan continue up a right to the base of the chimneys. These are the highest two routes and slightly right of the main wall.

Protection

5 bolts to fixed anchor

Photos

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