Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
Routes in OJ Buttress
|Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Judgito S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mimosa T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||242 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAnother 3-pitch .10b capped by a dihedral.
P1: (5.10b) SPORT/9 bolts/110': From the ledge, climb up and left to gain a fun groove through the slab. Continue up a short techy face to an arete. Balance your way up the arete (crux) to a right-tending ramp. Continue up and right, then back left to anchors. A belay bolt makes things more comfortable.
P2: (5.7) SPORT/9 bolts + 1fp/105': Move left, clip a bolt then mantle onto easy slab. Continue up fun, easy climbing. A short jug-haul delivers you to anchors and an cool stance below a dihedral.
P3: (5.9) MIXED/1 bolt, gear to 3"/60 feet: Climb the fun dihedral capped by a roof, then continue up easier terrain to the anchors. Great position with fun moves.
LocationContinue up the buttress to a fixed rope. Climb the fixed rope and continue up to a dirt ledge supported by rebar and lumber. A belay bolt is available.
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