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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Wolfe/Nutting 2015
Page Views: 242 total, 9/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Another 3-pitch .10b capped by a dihedral.
P1: (5.10b) SPORT/9 bolts/110': From the ledge, climb up and left to gain a fun groove through the slab. Continue up a short techy face to an arete. Balance your way up the arete (crux) to a right-tending ramp. Continue up and right, then back left to anchors. A belay bolt makes things more comfortable.
P2: (5.7) SPORT/9 bolts + 1fp/105': Move left, clip a bolt then mantle onto easy slab. Continue up fun, easy climbing. A short jug-haul delivers you to anchors and an cool stance below a dihedral.
P3: (5.9) MIXED/1 bolt, gear to 3"/60 feet: Climb the fun dihedral capped by a roof, then continue up easier terrain to the anchors. Great position with fun moves.

Location

Continue up the buttress to a fixed rope. Climb the fixed rope and continue up to a dirt ledge supported by rebar and lumber. A belay bolt is available.

Protection

10 runners, single pieces to 3", Mussy hooks,

3 rappels with a 70-meter rope.

Photos

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Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
1st pitch has some nice moves of technical face climbing. 2nd pitch is easy ground but worth the scramble to get to the 3rd pitch - which is the money-pitch with an extra star in my book. Beautiful dihedral with great exposure. Wish it was longer. Aug 27, 2015