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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Guilty as Charged S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
If I Did It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Nutting/Wolfe 2015
Page Views: 513 total · 14/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Just to the right of "Slow-speed Chase". An imposing roof move above the first bolt prompted us to install a fixed draw for the crux. Look for the "golden draw" at the second clip.

Climb up an easy ramp to make a clip under a roof. Position yourself for the fixed clip just above the roof, then "ride the bronco" to bolts above.
Some mixed but well-protected 5.10 climbing above keeps the interest, as does the final dihedral to the anchors.


Start under the rightmost roof at the base of the buttress.


8 bolts, gear to .5", Mussy hooks.

Lower off.


Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Like that infamous news day, the White Bronco proved to be an exciting diversion.

The start gave me an adrenaline goose that kept on giving all the way up this climb, which is fairly sustained and thoughtful all the way to the anchors.

I'm hesitant taking the 5.11b onsight on this rig, I think the grade may be more in the 5.10d to 5.11a range but that will await consensus. Honestly, I was so worked up for the initial roof moves, I couldn't be relied on for an accurate grade.

A couple small/medium nuts and a yellow C3 were nice supplemental gear for me. Otherwise, this is another very well equipped and nice addition to a fun crag. May 23, 2016
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
By consensus, I lowered the grade to 5.11a - thanks for all the feed-back. May 23, 2016
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
I'm ok with 11a grade if that's what people think. Not sure about 10d though, I've done 11b's in the canyon that felt about the same in difficulty. But 11a seems fair. May 26, 2016

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