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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ziegler/Pfeiff GU
Page Views: 385 total, 18/month
Shared By: rickziegler Ziegler on Feb 25, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A good variety of crack climbing on this one, with some featured patina face in the middle. Pitch 1 follows a hand crack in a V shaped flare. Jamming, stemming and a little chimney technique gets you to a short but steep flake section. Step left, clip a bolt and move up the feature face to 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 continues up the featured face, past a bolt to the base of a left facing dihedral. From here, work up and right to a thin crack through a bulge (crux, green or yellow alien). Continue up this crack, staying right of the large bush. The crack enters a small corner, with a cruxy bolt protected move. 2 bolt anchor above.

Location

20 yards uphill (lookers left) from the large orange roof. Starts in a V shaped flare that is more fun than it looks.

Protection

Doubles to #3 camalot and a few extra small cams. Two raps with a 60 m to descend.

Photos

Thanks Milo! I bet you're the only other party to have done it Oct 8, 2016
Milo
 
Milo  
 
Fun as hell. Oct 7, 2016