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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Guilty as Charged S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
If I Did It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

A recent addition to the Pine Creek Canyon climbing areas, the OJ Buttress an area between the Crack of Noon Buttress and the G.O.T. Crag, just up-canyon from the Pratt's Crack Gully.
Well-protected mixed and sport climbing of a moderate grade, shady after 3PM in the summer.

70-meter rope required!

Getting There

Drive about a quarter mile past the Pratt's Crack turn-off on Pine Creek Rd. and park in a small dirt/gravel turn out on the Northwest side of the road. From the turn out follow a Southwest trending dirt road/path toward the sand dune ahead. (Overflow parking is available on the southeast side of the road on either side of the road before and after the bridge - about 100 yards up-canyon from the main parking. There is an access trail directly across from the parking below the creek that hooks up with the main trail.)

Go past the sand dune, staying left until the trail levels off on a plateau. Look for a big rock on the right, and cut right just before it, following a drainage up. When level with the old road, cut left onto the road and follow it to an old 4" X 4" stood on end. Spot the obvious orange roof above and scramble up the talus field for an additional 10 minutes to the base of the buttress. Total approach time: 15-20 minutes, 20-25 to the upper routes.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at OJ Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Judgito
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Oompa Loompa
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
The Moose is Loose
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Slow Speed Chase
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Cheesy Puff
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Mimosa
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
The Juice is loose
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
White Bronco
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Jersey Tan
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Judgito
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Oompa Loompa
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Moose is Loose
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Slow Speed Chase
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Cheesy Puff
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mimosa
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Juice is loose
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
White Bronco
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jersey Tan
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in OJ Buttress »

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Photos

Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
Definitely potential for more climbing, the wall on the far left has yet to be explored. This cliff took months of cleaning, hope people enjoy these routes. Aug 24, 2015

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