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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Nutting/Wolfe 2015
Page Views: 919 total, 33/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

P1 (5.10b) MIXED-100': Climb past a bolt to a roof, then place an optional .75". Step left and place a 2" piece under the first roof. Move left past the first corner, then clip a bolt above. Move left again and then right onto a slab. Climb the sustained, bolted slab to a ramp and a final layback past a fixed draw to the anchors.
P2 (5.7) MIXED-175': Continue up easier mixed terrain, passing a set of rappel rings. A final bolted face (crux) delivers you to anchors.
P3 (5.9) MIXED-70': Traverse left and up to a gear-protected dihedral, capped by a small bulge and a bolt.

Location

Leftmost route. Look for a ramp with a bolt at 15'.

Protection

14 runners with a couple long ones, singles to 3.5".

4 rappels with a 70-meter rope.

Photos

Adam Wills
Bishop, Ca
  5.10b
Adam Wills   Bishop, Ca
  5.10b
Really fun climbing! Well protected.. would definitely do it again.. Jun 11, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Regarding pitch 1 only, I didn't move left around the corner at the bulge for the more oblique/easier approach. It was, ah, how do you say, direct? Direttisimo? My tunnel vision added some oomph but it was sorta fun this way with some stemming and sloper sidepull mojo. The patina of the rock is very interesting, Mr. Wolfe was kind of enough to explain that it was probably a deposit of limestone seeping onto and covering the rock. It takes a minute to get used to this change in texture, but it's not too slick as of yet. May 23, 2016
1st pitch is money! Good moves and good variety of styles. Feb 10, 2016
P1 is the best pitch on the buttress, 3.5 stars. Nice job and thanks for a great pitch in a fun area. Sep 30, 2015
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.10b
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.10b
Pitch 2 is meh, but it helps to link some short but fun cracks at the top. Still a little dirty, hopefully it cleans up with time. Sep 2, 2015
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
Super fun climbing! Really cool features on this one. Aug 24, 2015