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Routes in OJ Buttress

Bundy Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Parole T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Guilty as Charged S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
If I Did It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Judgito S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mimosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Wolfe/Nutting 2015
Page Views: 494 total · 13/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

*Update 5/24/18: An additional 5 bolts have been added to link this climb to two more moderate pitches above (previously the upper pitches of "Mimosa").*

aka "Pine Creek two-step".
P1:  (5.8) SPORT/10 or 16 bolts/110' or 150' Scramble up and right in a gully to the first bolt. Clip two more bolts then get your slab on. Continue up easier terrain to a bulge, then continue left to a sting in the tail. Lower from here, or continue past the anchors and 5 more bolts to an open belay left of the "Mimosa" anchors.
P2: (5.7) SPORT/10 bolts/105': Move left, clip a bolt then mantle onto easy slab. Continue up fun, easy climbing. A short jug-haul delivers you to anchors and an cool stance below a dihedral.
P3: (5.9) SPORT/6 bolts/60': Climb the fun dihedral capped by a roof, then continue up easier terrain to the anchors. Great position with fun moves.

Location

Same start as Oompa Loompa. Look for bolts to the right of dihedral.

Protection

Bolts, Mussy hooks.

Lower or rappel. If linking up the upper pitches rappel from the Mimosa anchors just to the right of the first pitch open belay/ledge.

Photos

Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Fun but very technical. This climb will fee somewhat old-school for some folks. Tricky slab move at the start. Finish keeps your attention. Aug 27, 2015
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Good route overall, but I had a hard time keeping the rope from going behind my leg at the top due to the placement of the last bolt. To me, the crux felt substantially harder than The High Life or Lizard Gizzards, both established 5.8 friction climbs. Jun 6, 2016
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.9
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Agree that the last bolt is not ideal.

Move the bolt? Add one more bolt above the transition?

Feedback welcome - thanks for your thoughts, Todd Jan 17, 2017
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9
It's a little hard to remember since that was 7 months ago. I think that if you moved it to one side or the other that would be fine. As I recall, the easier climbing seemed to be to the right, but the bolt better protected climbing to the left?

Anyway, still think it's a good route. Thanks for putting it up. :) Jan 18, 2017
Adam Wills
Bishop, Ca
 
Adam Wills   Bishop, Ca
 
Fun warm up!.. some tricky slab climbing in the beginning though.. Jun 11, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.9
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.9
5/24/18: Damaged 4th hanger replaced. May 27, 2018
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.9
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.9
  • Update* We added 5 bolts above the initial anchor and added another set of anchors, as well as retro-bolting the 2 pitches above. It is now a 3-pitch 5.9 sport route. Bring 16 draws/runners or break it up for the first pitch. You can also link pitch 2-3 for 2 mega pitches from the ground. Rappel off of Mimosa hooks at the lower station.
Jun 1, 2018
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
Oh cool you did a link up, I was wondering what that rope was doing up there. Nice addition Erik! Jun 9, 2018

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