All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead

Three Stoners

Name: Three Stoners
Rating: 3.2

5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13

Early Access

A topo that moves with you

Zoom into every pitch before you rack up.

Try Interactive Topos

Routes in Spearhead

L › R R › L A › Z

	Age Axe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	All Two Obvious T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Barb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	East Prow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Humdinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kingfisher, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Obviously Four Believers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Prowess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Spear Me the Details T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stone Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sykes' Sickle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ten Essentials, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Three Stoners T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, Alpine, 850 ft (258 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	40.2567, -105.63834
FA:	Dean Tschappat, Brian Teale, & Mark Rolofson 1978. FFA: Nichols, 1980s
Page Views:	2,114 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Guy H. on Aug 2, 2015
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

6 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

P1. (220 feet, 5.7/5.4R)

Start on some low angle slabs and traverse up and right. Finish on a 5.7 finger crack. Belay at some old bolts, or simul-climb to the base of the next pitch.

P2. (60 feet, 5.10d/11a) This is historically rated 5.10c. Locate a thin crack shooting up the slab that joins a left-facing roof/dihedral. The crux is at the 10-12 foot level where you have to fiddle in small gear from a marginal stance. An extra yellow and gray Alien will sew up the upper finger crack. Your lieback and gear placement skills will be tested on this pitch. Belay on the right side of the ledge.

P3. (130 feet, 5.9) Join the All Two Obvious finger crack to the right (recommended) or climb 5.8 flakes on the left. Belay near a set of old rap bolts on a ledge.

P4. (180 feet, 5.6R) This is the only bad pitch on the route. Follow the left-leaning, right-facing flake system to a fun runout slab. Aim for a left-facing dihedral that accesses a comfy, hanging, grass covered ledge. Grass mantels and loose flakes are included....

P5. (120 feet, 5.9-/5.6R) This is a wild pitch for the grade. Head right for 50 feet linking left-facing dihedrals together to a roof. Pull the right side of the roof to a great handcrack. Belay at two 50 year old 1/4 inch bolts, which can be backed up (#3 & small hex).

P6. (60 feet, 5.11a/b PG13) This is a memorable pitch shared with Obviously Four Believers, since success and safety are not guaranteed. Clip a somewhat upgraded 1/4 inch bolt (back it up!), and figure out a way to the undercling traverse and 2nd 1/4 inch bolt. Place a #2 cam to protect your follower before the 2nd bolt! Continue the traverse left (5.10) until you can turn the corner and gain a ledge.

P7. (120 feet, 5.9 or 5.10c) Either climb the great 5.9+ finish of the East Prow or the 5.10c finish on Age Axe which is on the far left side of the ledge.