Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dennis Oakeshott, Bob Harrington, July 1976
Page Views: 1,922 total · 25/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jul 4, 2015
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

When put up in the mid 70's this was your typical Tuolumne hard man horror show with single, 1/4" bolt belays, 1-2 pieces of protection per pitch, etc. Nowadays with other routes in the area and rebolting the route has been tamed a bit, but it is still an exciting adventure.

My description is of the line of the original first ascent from a topo drawn by the first ascent party. Variations, most notably of the first and second pitches, exist.

Pitch 1 - start in a small right facing corner/ramp which leads up and left to a ledge. Once you gain the ledge, climb more or less straight up the face on knobs past one bolt to a two-bolt anchor(5.9).

Pitch 2 - climb up a small right facing corner/crack to a roof.  A 5.10a move right under the roof(hard to protect for the second) leads for about 20-25 feet right until a break allows one to climb over the roof(5.8). Proceed up to a belay with two bolts with rings.  Note: this isn't actually the 2nd pitch belay on the original route.  It appears to be a belay from an unfinished route right of Sunshine, but the double bolts are not only convenient, but the actual 2nd pitch belay, below the 5.10a mantle with a bolt on the slab below is still a single bolt.  Climber's choice!

Pitch 3 - head up and left to a bolt on a 20 degree slab below a small, double roof(original 2nd pitch belay). Do a double mantle over the roof(5.10a) with a fixed pin then proceed up and left to a belay at a large flake with two bolts.

Pitch 4 - the crux pitch(5.10d). Climb up a steep face past a fixed pin to a small roof. Surmount the roof and belay at a small ledge on the left with two bolts and rings.

Pitch 5 - move right and get pro in a small crack then go up and a bit left on knobs(5.9) to a two bolt belay with rings near a large, peach-sized knob.

Pitch 6 - continue climbing to the top. No protection to speak of, but only 5.7.

Sometime in the late 1970's or 1980's a 2-pitch variation to the original two pitches of Sunshine was climbed. It joins the original route at the 5.10 mantle with a bolt on a 20 degree sloping ledge. This is the 6th bolt on the second pitch of the variation.  Rather than belay at this single bolt the variation continues up to the anchors on top of the original 3rd pitch.

The variation begins about 30-50' right of the original start, just left of the obvious arete of the climb Push It.  It shares the same start as the route Roof Rat.  The description below is from John Scott(AKA Donner Summit).

 P1 40m Head up the obvious corner and step left onto the face below a pin. You can sling a knob to protect the move to the pin. Work left and up the face/corner with plenty of gear options. Step left around the corner just above a new anchor with mussy hooks. Sling a knob and continue to the obvious belay ledge and anchor. There are no bolts on this pitch.(5.9)
   
 P2 25m An offset protects the move to the 1st bolt. The mantle above the 1st bolt has a broken hold. Maybe a little harder now. After the 2nd bolt go left not up. You can sling a knob to protect the move at the end of the left traverse. Pull up and clip 3rd bolt. Continue with bolts and gear. After the 5th bolt go straight up and right on knobs. The bolt you see on the arete to the left is for Acapulco. The 6th bolt is shown as a 2 bolt anchor in the ‘06 Falcon guide but it’s now a single bolt. Don't belay here. Pull up and place an offset in the roof before climbing up and right to clip a pin. Continue up to the roof and good gear. Exit left to the 2 bolt ASCA anchor.(5.10++)

Location

This starts about 200-300 feet right of Oz. Walk off if your legs aren't shaking too much.

Protection

Bolts, but there are only a few of them, provide the majority of the protection on this climb. A few pieces up to 1" might help mediate the pucker factor.

Photos