Type: Trad, 430 ft, 4 pitches
FA: French Guide
Page Views: 2,031 total · 26/month
Shared By: Eric Can on Aug 20, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route was established by a French Guide on rappel and the quality of the route is summarized best by its name. This route has numerous bolts, many of which Tuolumne climbers will feel are not needed. Harder moves are often easily bypassed by moving onto easier ground to the left or right of the route. All anchors are bolted belays. The Crux is one move of 10.C face climbing that can be aided past if necessary. The route takes the path of most resistance up easier terrain. It is possible to link the first two pitches with a 70m rope. The final fourth pitch has the crux. After pulling the crux you can continue straight up on easy 5.10 face climbing or go to 5.8 flake on the right. Sling pro long if you take the flake. This route is ideal to use as a quick way to access Hobbit Book.

Location

This route begins with large number of bolts just right of a large right facing corner system that goes up most of Drug Dome. It is to the right of the route Crystal Meth which starts just to the right of the huge black streak seen on Drug Dome. The first three bolts are easily bypassed using a 3rd class ramp and serve more as a marking than for protection. It tops out in an ideal place to access more routes.

Protection

9 draws. Single for Cams from .4-1.5 inches. Long slings helpful.

Photos