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Routes in Drug Dome

Acapulco Gold T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Anatolio T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Black Nepalese T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crystal Meth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dope Show T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Euro Trash T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gram T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
OZ T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Push It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stemulant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
White Trash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Brick Road WI3+
Type: Ice, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Porter and Mead Hargis
Page Views: 2,642 total · 34/month
Shared By: rhyang on Dec 31, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

In early summer there is a seeping waterfall down a black streak on the face around the corner from Oz, Gram, etc. In the winter this becomes an ice route. Probably in most years highway 120 is closed for the winter before this happens, but in 2011 the road re-opened in December and did not close for the rest of the year.

The route started out fairly easy, and then steepened. Most seemed to belay on screws about 150' up on a bit of a ledge. The second pitch had a short vertical section, and in late December seemed to get sun by noonish.

After the crux the route flattens, and it's probably most expedient to just traverse right towards a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings. Place a screw or two as a directional for the follower and then walk in crampons on knobby Tuolumne granite for a bit. This seemed about 60m from the belay, possibly a rope-stretcher.

I believe the rap anchors belong to a rock route called Crystal Meth (5.8R), established in 8/2008 (see the 2009 supertopo guide).

Location

Start at the pullout for Drug Dome and hike/ski/snowshoe towards Drug Dome, but as you near the base contour right towards Mariluolumne Dome. The route can be seen from the road if driving from the west and is fairly obvious from the approach as you come out of the trees.

Depending on snow cover and recent traffic there may be a nice use trail to follow (we were second of at least four parties on it).

Descend by rappel. There are two other bolted rap anchors after the first one; with two 60m ropes you can skip one of them.

Protection

Ice screws, 60-70m rope(s). Two 60's will get you down in two rappels, a single 70 will make it in three.
Jason Ham
  WI3
Jason Ham  
  WI3
This route is known as Yellow Brick Road. According to Bob Harrington, who possibly did the 2nd ascent, the FA team was Charlie Porter and Mead Hargis. Jan 5, 2012
rhyang
San Jose, CA
 
rhyang   San Jose, CA
 
Thanks Jason ! I've added this info to the route description. If Bob remembers the year of the FA, that would be great to include too. Jan 5, 2012

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