Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches
FA: Chad Shepard, Dimitri Barton
Page Views: 2,360 total · 14/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

Totally Awesome! Well the first two pitches are great! If I were to do the route again I would skip the third (which is Sunshine and quite exciting/scary), the fourth (sort of contrived feeling) and fifth pitches and link into the third (looks RAD!) and fourth pitches of Acapulco Gold.

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P1. A very cool pitch of liebacking, knob pulling and mantling. Unless we both missed a bolt at the crux, it would be a bad fall if you blow the hard move at the top of the shallow left facing corner at the start (3rd bolt). Otherwise the pro is super bolted to two bolt chained anchor. (11a/b and fun)

  • Topo calls P1 11a and the face section of P2 11c. We felt the crux of P1 was WAY harder than P2's bolt protected crux.

P2. Up and left to the blunt arete of the beautiful gold plaque of smooth knobs. Halfway up the line of bolts, traverse right through a crux section (10+) and onto the slab under the big roof...Cool! This looks RAD!! Out the right side of the roof's apex is a traversing seam above a smooth face. A red Camalot extended with two runners fits well and deep in one of the slots low under the roof. I placed a red Alien in the handjam size slot at the beginning of the traverse, which allowed me to still lean off the jam and stretch up to the good undercling and place a bomber green Alien (green Camalot will then fit in the handjam, too). Prepare to get a little cramped-up on the undercling and cross-through moves out right. A brilliant sequence past the green Alien hits a double-handed sloper and shitty feet. If you can hold on, there are a couple options for gear. I placed a red Alien in an undercling (yellow Alien maybe in another slot or possibly a gold Camalot, big nut or Hex in the vertical crack in front of you). If you can't hold on to place a piece, its a big whipper onto the green Alien and maybe the slab. If your belayer is on it, it should be a clean fall (I tested this fall theory on my first go). Once you get to the lip/end of the roof, clip a fixed nut (if its there) with a doubled runner and power up the sequential corner all the way to the next roof. Ever so gingerly stem hard out right where a yellow or red Alien (better) fits. Yikes!! Another couple moves takes you to a bolted anchor with big quick-links. To protect the follower, I clipped the first bolt of Acapulco Gold's second pitch with a runner. (12b/c and amazing)

P3. Sunshine for 30 feet...Funky and run out to a good Lost Arrow (9 R). Weird knobs lead toward the roof (10- R. Load up the flake and make a crazy traverse (5.7 X) left across these wild tiered ledges to knobs and finally a bolted anchor w/o chain or links.

  • We never spotted anchors atop P4 or 5...We must of had blinders on...I linked these pitches with a 70M rope and 6 feet of simul-climbing to a quick gear anchor.

P4-5. Connect the dots of hard to see bolts that mostly follow cleaner gold knobs left of big, loose flakes. Just to the right of where Gram traverse finishes. (10- R with some fun knob sections)

Location

Just right of Oz.

Protection

lots of bolts...10-12 draws/runner combos, a couple med/small wired nuts (a bomber #5 Stopper was fixed at crux roof), maybe a #7 Hex or big nut(?), one set from blue Alien - gold Camalot sizes (double green - red Alien sizes helpful)

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