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Sunshine

5.10d R, Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.9 from 9 votes
FA: Dennis Oakeshott, Bob Harrington, July 1976
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Drug Dome
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Description

When put up in the mid 70's this was your typical Tuolumne hard man horror show with single, 1/4" bolt belays, 1-2 pieces of protection per pitch, etc. Nowadays with other routes in the area and rebolting the route has been tamed a bit, but it is still an exciting adventure.

My description is of the line of the original first ascent from a topo drawn by the first ascent party. Variations, most notably of the first and second pitches, exist.

Pitch 1 - start in a small right facing corner/ramp which leads up and left to a ledge. Once you gain the ledge, climb more or less straight up the face on knobs past one bolt to a two-bolt anchor(5.9).

Pitch 2 - climb up a small right facing corner/crack to a roof.  A 5.10a move right under the roof(hard to protect for the second) leads for about 20-25 feet right until a break allows one to climb over the roof(5.8). Proceed up to a belay with two bolts with rings.  Note: this isn't actually the 2nd pitch belay on the original route.  It appears to be a belay from an unfinished route right of Sunshine, but the double bolts are not only convenient, but the actual 2nd pitch belay, below the 5.10a mantle with a bolt on the slab below is still a single bolt.  Climber's choice!

Pitch 3 - head up and left to a bolt on a 20 degree slab below a small, double roof(original 2nd pitch belay). Do a double mantle over the roof(5.10a) with a fixed pin then proceed up and left to a belay at a large flake with two bolts.

Pitch 4 - the crux pitch(5.10d). Climb up a steep face past a fixed pin to a small roof. Surmount the roof and belay at a small ledge on the left with two bolts and rings.

Pitch 5 - move right and get pro in a small crack then go up and a bit left on knobs(5.9) to a two bolt belay with rings near a large, peach-sized knob.

Pitch 6 - continue climbing to the top. No protection to speak of, but only 5.7.

Sometime in the late 1970's or 1980's a 2-pitch variation to the original two pitches of Sunshine was climbed. It joins the original route at the 5.10 mantle with a bolt on a 20 degree sloping ledge. This is the 6th bolt on the second pitch of the variation.  Rather than belay at this single bolt the variation continues up to the anchors on top of the original 3rd pitch.

The variation begins about 30-50' right of the original start, just left of the obvious arete of the climb Push It.  It shares the same start as the route Roof Rat.  The description below is from John Scott(AKA Donner Summit).

 P1 40m Head up the obvious corner and step left onto the face below a pin. You can sling a knob to protect the move to the pin. Work left and up the face/corner with plenty of gear options. Step left around the corner just above a new anchor with mussy hooks. Sling a knob and continue to the obvious belay ledge and anchor. There are no bolts on this pitch.(5.9)
   
 P2 25m An offset protects the move to the 1st bolt. The mantle above the 1st bolt has a broken hold. Maybe a little harder now. After the 2nd bolt go left not up. You can sling a knob to protect the move at the end of the left traverse. Pull up and clip 3rd bolt. Continue with bolts and gear. After the 5th bolt go straight up and right on knobs. The bolt you see on the arete to the left is for Acapulco. The 6th bolt is shown as a 2 bolt anchor in the ‘06 Falcon guide but it’s now a single bolt. Don't belay here. Pull up and place an offset in the roof before climbing up and right to clip a pin. Continue up to the roof and good gear. Exit left to the 2 bolt ASCA anchor.(5.10++)

Location

This starts about 200-300 feet right of Oz. Walk off if your legs aren't shaking too much.

Protection

Bolts, but there are only a few of them, provide the majority of the protection on this climb. A few pieces up to 1" might help mediate the pucker factor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P1 #2 C3 is useful. Great route
[Hide Photo] P1 #2 C3 is useful. Great route
Hike out with my daughter after a Sunshine to Serrated edge linkup on 9/29/12
[Hide Photo] Hike out with my daughter after a Sunshine to Serrated edge linkup on 9/29/12
Drug Dome - Sunshine (both starts), Push It
[Hide Photo] Drug Dome - Sunshine (both starts), Push It
Sunshine p5 anchor - before and after replacement, 2013-8.  (was single 1/4" bolt; I replaced it and added a second bolt)
[Hide Photo] Sunshine p5 anchor - before and after replacement, 2013-8. (was single 1/4" bolt; I replaced it and added a second bolt)
Sunshine p4 anchor - halfway done and fully replaced, 2013-8
[Hide Photo] Sunshine p4 anchor - halfway done and fully replaced, 2013-8
This is a topo of Sunshine that I drew shortly after the first ascent. A bolt was added later with the concurrence of the FA party where it says "very scary 5.9."
[Hide Photo] This is a topo of Sunshine that I drew shortly after the first ascent. A bolt was added later with the concurrence of the FA party where it says "very scary 5.9."
Peter Croft on the final pitch of Sunshine, 2009.
[Hide Photo] Peter Croft on the final pitch of Sunshine, 2009.
Awesome topout!
[Hide Photo] Awesome topout!
Joe coming up to P2 (purple) or P3 (yellow) anchor
[Hide Photo] Joe coming up to P2 (purple) or P3 (yellow) anchor
HBags past the P1 crux heading to the P1 anchors. [went up the yellow line to the P1 purple anchors]
[Hide Photo] HBags past the P1 crux heading to the P1 anchors. [went up the yellow line to the P1 purple anchors]
Photo: Mt. Hofmann
[Hide Photo] Photo: Mt. Hofmann
First pro bolt on Sunshine before replacement, 2008. The upper bolt is a Metolius P-bolt, likely added late '80s or early '90s.
[Hide Photo] First pro bolt on Sunshine before replacement, 2008. The upper bolt is a Metolius P-bolt, likely added late '80s or early '90s.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
[Hide Comment] "Am I really supposed to be here?

How long is this gonna go on for?

What the f*#k are we doing?

Wow, pretty rock-

This is kind of intense...." Jul 13, 2015
[Hide Comment] I referenced both the 1983, and then the 1992 Reid/Falkenstein Topos for this climb. I actually believe the 1983 topo is the most accurate! On the other hand, the 2009 SuperTopo description is useless. If the editors couldn't accurately draw the first/only pitch for their guidebook, they should have left this climb out altogether rather than hyping it, and no matter how good the quality. No doubt, this is a beautiful and spectacular, but very dangerous climb that has always enjoyed a solid R/X rating by traditional Tuolumne Meadows standards. Be very careful on the first two pitches which are especially steep and run-out. Also be ready for the fifth (5.9) and sixth (5.7) pitches which have very little or no protection at all. If you're still up for Sunrise, continue upward using the much easier "Middle Earth" or "Hobbit Book" to exit via the top of Mariuolumne Dome, and then back down and right to the Drug Dome parking lot. Just got back from a trip to the Meadows, including new climbs on Drug Dome this past week. Happy to say that OZ/Gram Traverse, Sunshine, and all of the other hard man routes put up in the late-70s and 80s in the Meadows have more than stood-up to the test of time. Aug 17, 2016
DK Singer
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Did this route in 'original' condition many years ago without the new fixed hardware. This may be the most frightening route I have ever done (including some of the sandstone horror shows in Monument Valley UT, and other dastardly routes in Sedona...) - whole pitches with shite gear and TERRIBLE hangerless 1/4" machine bolt anchors. WTF were those guys thinking on the FA? I think my underpants ended up in the dumpster at day's end. We gambled a bit with this one and got lucky. Unless the gear is a whole lot better than it used to be - tread lightly or the Grim Reaper may come calling... Apr 22, 2019
[Hide Comment] Actually, I was with Darren Singer on that ascent he described, and I remember several pitches with no protection at all - we had to simul-climb the last few pitches. Great fun. Jul 30, 2019
Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I thought I would add some history as to the quantity and quality of the protection when Pat Timson and I did our ascent in 1978. The belay at the top of pitch 2 was one 1/4" bolt. The leader did the 5.10a mantel directly off the belay anchor. The belay at the top of pitch 3 was a sling around the flake. The belay at the top of pitch 4 was two 1/4" bolts. When I questioned Bob Harrington why there were two 1/4" bolts he said that, on the second ascent, Verne Clevenger had freaked out and placed the 2nd bolt. The belay at the top of the 5th pitch was a single 1/4" bolt. You could tie off the peach-sized knob next to it if you desired. May 12, 2020
John Scott
Norden
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route in 2012 with my eleven year old daughter. We both loved it and I didn't find it particularly run out or scary. I climbed it again today and perhaps the problem is with the old route description and recommended protection. If you climb with a modern rack and know how to securely sling a knob then this route is a fun PG13. Below is my recap of each pitch. You should carry Camalots .4 to 2, a set of offsets, a set of C3 cams, BD nuts 3-6, 4 quick draws and 10 shoulder slings. Think of the shiny new ASCA bolts as a supplement to the gear. If you enjoy clipping them then be sure to send a donation to safeclimbing.org/

P1 40m Head up the obvious corner and step left onto the face below a pin. You can sling a knob to protect the move to the pin. Work left and up the face/corner with plenty of gear options. Step left around the corner just above a new anchor with mussy hooks. Sling a knob and continue to the obvious belay ledge and anchor. There are no bolts on this pitch.

P2 25m An offset protects the move to the 1st bolt. The mantle above the 1st bolt has a broken hold. Maybe a little harder now. After the 2nd bolt go left not up. You can sling a knob to protect the move at the end of the left traverse. Pull up and clip 3rd bolt. Continue with bolts and gear. After the 5th bolt go straight up and right on knobs. The bolt you see on the arete to the left is for Acapulco. The 6th bolt is shown as a 2 bolt anchor in the ‘06 Falcon guide but it’s now a single bolt. Don't belay here. Pull up and place an offset in the roof before climbing up and right to clip a pin. Continue up to the roof and good gear. Exit left to the 2 bolt ASCA anchor.

P3 20m Four small cams protect the climbing to the pin which can be backed up with an offset. Pull the crux move to good gear options. Hand jam the 5.9 roof and get small gear. The 2 bolt ASCA anchor is straight up not to the left.

P4 35m Go right and follow a corner system with gear. After 2-3 pieces worth of climbing a 20’ run-out on easy terrain to a small overlap with gear. Traverse left to a #2 camalot at the end of the overlap. Continue up a corner system with gear then left to a slingable knob and 2 bolt ASCA anchor.

P5 30M climb up and left, sling a knob then continue to the corner which takes gear all the way to the top Jun 25, 2020
Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] ^^^^^^^^^
From your description, it sounds like you didn't do the route Sunshine. When Pat Timson and I did our ascent we had a topo drawn by the first ascent party. It sounds like you did some variation to the original route which is pretty easy to do now that there are many more routes in the area with lots more bolts and bolted anchors. Jun 25, 2020
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
[Hide Comment] I created a photo overlay which I believe shows most of Bruce's and John's
different ways of climbing the first 2 pitches of Sunshine.
Bruce climbed the yellow line (left of the Push It arete, then the crack above it),
I believe John climbed the purple line - thin corner cracks right of the Push It arete.
I believe John's p2 is the face out left where I show [6] bolts. Jun 26, 2020
John Scott
Norden
 
[Hide Comment] Clint thanks for the new bolts. More work need on the clarification. On P1 I climbed where the pin is just right and above the roof which is slightly right of your pink line. I saw the Push it anchor down and left but belayed at the huge ledge above it at a 2 bolt anchor. From there I went left not right as shown in your topo. Pretty sure I clipped 5 bolts before I got to the 6th bolt which is down and left of a pin in the roof. My P2 belay was what you show as P3. I'll upload a photo. Jun 26, 2020
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
[Hide Comment] Thanks for all the corrections, John.
I updated the overlay - hopefully it shows how you climbed it now!

2005 thread on the Supertopo forum,
which includes the description from the 1982 Alan Nelson guidebook:
supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

It would be cool to see the topo from Alan Nelson's 1982 "Big Dog Team" guidebook
with the skull and crossbones. I saw that once, but I don't have a copy. Jun 26, 2020
John Scott
Norden
 
[Hide Comment] Clint the supertopo link you posted exactly describes the 1st pitch I climbed on Sunshine. On the second pitch I also went left and continued left and up avoiding the chicken head knob described in the supertopo post. A slung knob protects the traverse. I went back last weekend to climb Acapulco Gold(I logged some big clean falls on P3) and checked out the left variation of Sunshine P1 past the bolt. A bit more run out, but similar difficulty. Jul 2, 2020
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
[Hide Comment] Sounds like fun!
I updated the overlay again, and Bruce updated the description,
so I think we have a pretty good description of the ways to climb Sunshine now! Jul 2, 2020
Bob Harrington
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] I scanned and posted a topo that I drew shortly after the FA of this route. It's similar to the topo in early Reid/Falkenstein guides because their topo is basically a transcription of this one, except theirs erroneously omits the bolts on the first pitch and rates it 5.7 rather than 5.9. Also, shortly after the FA, another party added a bolt on the second pitch where my topo says "very scary 5.9" (with our concurrence of course).

As best I recall (a significant qualifier here), the FA took three days. The first day we did the first pitch and rapped. The second day we climbed the second pitch by going right into a right facing corner and up to a ledge, and completed the third pitch, and rapped off. We decided that the second pitch would be more aesthetic if it went up the steep face to the left of where we went on the second day, so on the third day we did the new second pitch, and finished the route. We used a few pitons and tied off knobs. I don't believe there were any single point anchors, though the top two may have been just a bolt with a homemade hanger and a tied off knob.

It's hard for me to comment on the written descriptions above, as I don't remember the climbing in such detail. Regarding Clint's photo overlay, my best guess is that on the second pitch, the purple line is the pitch we did when we completed the route on the third day and the yellow line is the pitch we did the second day. The yellow line looks correct for all other pitches. Oct 18, 2020
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.10+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Really, really fun climbing. The roof on P3 is really memorable. All hard climbing is reasonably protected with good gear, pins or a bolt. Likely not R any more with modern gear and the anchors replaced - only PG-13 pitches are the first pitch and last two pitches on easy climbing. On Clint's topo, we went up the yellow start to the P1 anchor on purple. Then we took the purple line left to P2 (purple)/P3 (yellow) anchors, then up the yellow line the rest of the way.

Rack: 8 draws, 6 slings, single set of TCUs, 2x (0.3BD, 0.4BD, 0.5BD, 0.75BD, 1BD) and 1#2. No stoppers needed. Jul 11, 2021