Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Ditto with help from Ian Nielsen and Steele Taylor
Page Views: 2,235 total · 42/month
Shared By: ben ditto on Nov 16, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

High Times starts on the far left side of Drug Dome and shares the first part of the route 'spinner'. it's 4 pitches long, easily climbed and rappelled with a 70m rope. sun in the morning, shade after 11 or so.
pitch 1: Begin up the right facing dihedral and go left at the roof, past 2 bolts. 5.11a.
pitch 2: climb the wandering splitter crack up to a piton, step left, and the climbing gets a bit trickier, past a few bolts, a hanging flake, and into the 'crackless' dihedral (techy stemming) and up to a nice ledge and anchor. 5.12b
pitch 3: head up and left from the anchor on a hanging arete past bolts, step back right and up a short steep crack and into a dihedral to a small ledge and anchor. 5.10
pitch 4: up the steep blocky (perhaps a bit loose) crack past a bolt, some fixed nuts and then into the business. boulder to get out of the crack and to the roof/bulges and the final boulder problem on edges and knobs. 5.13b

To rappel the route, you can top out, or not. If you top out the formation, belay on the big tree and then do a short rappel (there's a rap ring tied to a smaller tree) back to the anchor atop pitch 4. I configured it in such a way so that pitch 4 has its own anchor, enabling the leader to belay up the 2nd and then proceed to the summit, or just rap back down.

Location

High Times is on the far left side of Dome.
It begins in a right facing dihedral and is a shared start with the route 'spinner'
rappel the route with a single 70m rope, or walk off

Protection

bring 10 + quick draws and slings
1 set of cams from tiny to #3 camalot
all pitches have bolted anchors

Photos