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Routes in Drug Dome

Acapulco Gold T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Anatolio T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Black Nepalese T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crystal Meth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dope Show T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Euro Trash T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gram T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
OZ T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Push It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stemulant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
White Trash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Brick Road WI3+
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Clint Cummins and Bruce Hildenbrand 7/15
Page Views: 501 total, 18/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 19, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route climbs unique, ledgey features for three long pitches. It is recommended that you go uphill a bit and scope out the two, small, right-facing dihedrals that are part of the first pitch. Also, it is helpful to spot the V-shaped groove with a lone pine tree at it's top which marks the end of the last pitch.

Pitch 1 - start about 50 feet right of Euro Trash and follow big, easy ledges up and right to a small right-facing dihedral. Place pro and climb to the top of the dihedral. Climb past two closely-spaced bolts(5.6) then up and slightly left for about 30-40' before traversing straight right back to another small right-facing dihedral and belay(#.5 Camalot, #1 Camalot, small stopper).

Pitch 2 - climb up to a bolt then go a bit right(5.7) and up to a big ledge. The pitch goes more or less straight up, but you will need to zig zag back and forth to link up small ledge systems to get pro and keep the grade moderate. You will find a second bolt about 150' up. From there traverse up and right and belay at a small crack system/ledge(#3 Camalot, 1/2" cam, small stopper).

Pitch 3 - climb up and left on small ledges for 30' to a bolt. Head up right then left to a second bolt. Now, head up and right to a third bolt. Climb up right(5.8) and then left into a groove. Continue up the groove for about 100' to the top.

The last pitch of this climb provides a nice, moderate finish to Euro Trash.

Location

This route starts about 50 right of Euro Trash.

Either rappel Euro Trash of continue up Hobbit Book.

Protection

Bring a full rack from stoppers to a #3 Camalot.
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Oops, I accidentally climbed this variation finish to Eurotrash last year, and I know I'm not the first or only to have done so. Just kept wandering up and right instead of doing the 10c/a0 section, then finished back left. It was runout with intermittent pro, so I'm sure the bolts will be appreciated (especially since the ending of Eurotrash makes no sense when the rest of it is gym-bolted).
As always, thanks for the hard work Clint and Bruce; look forward to checking these out. Aug 24, 2015