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Routes in Left of the Regular Route

Agua Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Attitude is Everything T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Birdleg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changing Phases T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clast von Bulow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hades T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mejito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pyroclastic Pump T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ramp(?), The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Red Knight, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Regular Route Left Variation Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Regular Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Remote Luxery T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sporting Chance T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tangerine Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tres Hombres T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trinity Crack Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trinity Crack Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trinity Crack Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trinity Crack Far Right T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trophy, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variation B T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Viscous Variation T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 265 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Rob Settlemire, Gary Adams
Page Views: 943 total, 31/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jun 18, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Please read the access rules in Details

Description

Might be the best moderate on the Belly. Great pro, perfect cracks from fingers to off-fist and big exposure make this a classic line.
P1) 65' Look for a large detached blocky flake sitting 15' from the ground on a sloping ledge. Climb the left facing corner passing above the flake, to a right traverse under a knobby bulge, up a short crack to a very large comfortable ledge where you will find anchors on the far left.
P2) 60' Wonderful pitch gets right to it. Leave the ledge on the far left which starts out thin hands and quickly gets off fist. Gear anchor.
P3) A short thin finger crack leads up and to the right to the bolted belay on a huge ledge.
P4) The Dream pitch. Go straight up the deceivingly steep hand to off fist crack to bolted anchors. Awesome!

Location

Stand back and look for the detached block/flake. Starts left and passes the block. A 70m rope just makes the rap from P3 to P1.

Protection

Double rack .3 to 3", 1-4". Offset nuts work well. Slings a must.

Photos

fforcella
Redding, CA
  5.9+
fforcella   Redding, CA
  5.9+
We combined P2 & 3 without running into any rope drag (we were using doubles so that may have helped). P4 was burly but really fun. There were some dirty sections but the cracks were pretty clean overall. Awesome route! Jun 29, 2015
Muscrat

 
Muscrat    
 
You can combine P2 & 3 into one great pitch, just watch rope drag. Jun 18, 2015
Muscrat

 
Muscrat    
 
This really is worth the hike, a sweet line. 5.9+? I don't know, you want to be a confident 10 climber for this, and bring your wide brain. Pitch 4 i had to backclean #3 and #4.
BETA ALERT!! IF YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW READ NO FURTHER:!!
Look for the thin crack about 2/3 of the way up P4 on the left hand side. Takes .5-.75, saves your wide gear for above. A #4 gets tipped out towards the top, certainly wider than my fist. Tape gloves a must, there's some sharp in there. Jun 18, 2015