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Routes in Left of the Regular Route

Agua Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Attitude is Everything T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Birdleg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changing Phases T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clast von Bulow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hades T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mejito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pyroclastic Pump T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ramp(?), The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Red Knight, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Regular Route Left Variation Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Regular Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Remote Luxery T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sporting Chance T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tangerine Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tres Hombres T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trinity Crack Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trinity Crack Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trinity Crack Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trinity Crack Far Right T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trophy, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variation B T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Viscous Variation T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rob Settlemire, Gary Adams
Page Views: 86 total · 2/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jun 17, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Please read the access rules in Details

Description

The first pitch of this deserves 4 stars, the second and third 2, hence the overall 3 star rating. Double ropes needed to rap. Otherwise top out as for Tres Hombres and walk off exposed 3rd class to climbers left.
Pitch 1) A short traverse with thin pro leads to a left facing corner to the right of the arete. The crack widens and narrows, leading to a ledge with anchors on the far left (shared with 4 other routes). This pitch is 180+'.
Pitch 2) It's best to have scoped this from the ground; move up and right through a series of ledges to the base of a steep dihedral. Short pitch.
Pitch 3) Finish as for Tres Hombres, up a short steep section, then topping out and walking off to the climbers left.

Location

Look for a small ledge which leads right to a small left facing corner. As with many of the climbs here, standing back helps.

Protection

Double (at least) very thin to 5". The first pitch is long and may require backcleaning for mere mortals. Micros/ballnuts in the start.

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Muscrat

  5.9+
Muscrat    
  5.9+
The walk off on the Belly button really sucks. Very loose gravel/scree. Whenever possible RAP! I would skip the last 2 pitches of this and call it done.
I've heard you can rap with a 70m to the top of P1 of Tangerine. I was just on Tangerine, not sure if they would reach? Jun 17, 2015

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