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Routes in Left of the Regular Route

Agua Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Attitude is Everything T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Birdleg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changing Phases T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clast von Bulow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hades T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mejito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pyroclastic Pump T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ramp(?), The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Red Knight, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Regular Route Left Variation Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Regular Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Remote Luxery T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sporting Chance T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tangerine Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tres Hombres T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trinity Crack Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trinity Crack Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trinity Crack Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trinity Crack Far Right T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trophy, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variation B T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Viscous Variation T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft
FA: John Yates, Steve Lauderdale, Travis Klawin
Page Views: 195 total, 6/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jun 11, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Please read the access rules in Details

Description

A 3 (or 4) pitch route more popular for it's ease of 'getting to the top' than for it's pure aesthetics, fun, with lots of variations and possibilities. Originally believed to be the first line on the Belly (1984); Tangerine Dream' squeezed it out by 4 years (1980)
Pitch 1: Starts just left of the toe, up an easy (5.6R) steep knobby face with little pro. 65' to the left traverse onto 'First Terrace'. Walk to the back corner of the terrace, bolted belay. 90'
Pitch 2: Climb the corner above the belay. The original line (5.8) is the leftmost crack in the corner,, there are easier variation just to the right of this. Ends on the 'Second Terrace'. 90'
Pitch 3: Head into the left corner, up a small ledge/ramp. There are many choices of cracks to choose from, the original Regular Route used the left hand crack to start, then switched into the OW/chimney to finish at the bolted belay.
Descent for 3rd Pitch: Recommended. Rap from belay to top of Second Terrace. Downclimb on belay to anchors above "Clast Von Bulow". Difficult to find if not familiar with the route.
Optional 4th pitch: NOT RECOMMENDED: Continue up through the choss, loose rock and ledges (easy 5th) to the top. From the top of the 4th pitch the descent is a short rap (you will need slings or to leave gear behind) into the scree behind the crag to the northwest. Walk/slide down dirty, loose, lousy scree to the base. Not worth it.

Location

The climb starts just to the left of the lowest point of the crag, the toe. UP and to the left approximately 65' is the 'First Terrace'.

Protection

Standard rack to 5" depending on the variation. Doubles in fingers and hands for some. Tricams work well on pockets throughout the park. Here as well.

Photos

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Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
The second pitch was fun. First was a bit junky. Sep 29, 2017
splitclimber
  5.8+
splitclimber  
  5.8+
I remember there being good gear, but I started off to the far right to get to gear placements early. Took the right variation on the second pitch which is exciting, then went directly over to the three crack/knob climbs up and right. Jun 12, 2015
Muscrat

 
Muscrat    
 
Fun day at the crag, almost 4 stars. The first pitch is....airy, found my first pro around 40' off the deck. Sling the piece at the start of the traverse when you get onto the first terrace, otherwise ROPE DRAG!
The descent on 2nd rap is one of the most terrifying i have done. Downclimb loose gravel above a 90' drop off. UGLY. Make sure you get belayed down. There are now higher rap anchors than the original (thanks Ricky!), but still ugh scary.
From everything i have heard, avoid the 4th pitch, you have to leave gear, surf scree, etc. Plague. Jun 11, 2015