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Routes in Secret Garden

American Juggalo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bees in the Trap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cock to the Rock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Controlled Demolition S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flashback T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fuzzy Side Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gettin Woolly S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Going Away Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Guns n' Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heavy Flow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hippie Lip Balm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leech Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Linear Regression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little T S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Wing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nachos, Lemonheads, My Dad's Boat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nilbog Night Life S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rememberbuilding7.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rethink911.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spork T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stinky Johnny's S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swole Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tinkerbell's Panties T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where's the Dope At? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
You Can't Piss on Hospitality S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
ae911truth.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
patriotsquestion911.com S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Dustin Stephens, Jeff Kayse in 2013
Page Views: 484 total · 13/month
Shared By: EthanC on May 26, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Great route to practice your hand and foot jams. Crux is about a third of the way up as the crack flares open and out. Sink those feet and grunt and pretty soon you'll find your way to the top.

Location

Right of the dihedral cracks starting atop a large arrowhead shaped boulder.

Protection

Solid pro the whole way, mostly hands with a couple small placements. A number 4 can be nice at the crux but is certainly not necessary.

Photos

That #4 felt pretty necessary Dec 17, 2015
tyleralgeo  
 
We found the crux much better after the crack was swept of all the debris - there is a finger crack at the base of the big flaring section. Generally the upper section was much more enjoyable after a cleaning. #5 is great for protecting that flared crack but might get in the way if you place it overhead. Mar 28, 2016
I don't think I used my #4. It can be done without one with some creativity. I know I had wished I had brought some more of my smaller (<= .5) cams as there were more placements for them than I would have expected.

Short but fun.

3 star climb, 5 star belay spot. Sep 12, 2016

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