Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Patrick Miller, Bob Bartlett in 2013
Page Views: 615 total · 14/month
Shared By: EthanC on May 26, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Climb the crack in the back left of the cave until you get to the roof. Either go up the chimney then traverse to the face or tiptoe along the rail until you can gain the right face. Climb to the hole with tat and rings or finish on the lichen-ey slab to a tree. Rap off the tree or walk over to Hippie Lip Balm and rappel onto those anchors. You can also probably traverse to those anchors without topping out. Route should be fun once it starts seeing more traffic.

Location

The obvious large crack around the corner to the left from where the trail meets the wall. Approximately 50 feet to climbers right of Hippie Lip Balm.

Protection

A #4 is nice to protect the roof.

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This is a super fun route and worth doing if you carried your rack in for Tinkerbell's Panties. May 10, 2016
Derrick Keene
Kentucky
  5.7
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
  5.7
Not sure if the description of this route is correct. According to Redriverclimbing.com and the route I climbed this starts just climbers right of the 5.9 Hippie Lip Balm. Seems more like 50 feet. Easy traverse to Hippie Lip Balms anchors. Easy face climbing makes it difficult to actually use the crack. About fist size most of the way up though. Easy one for a beginning trad leader to place pro. May 15, 2017
Louis Weiher
Milwaukee, WI
  5.6
Louis Weiher   Milwaukee, WI
  5.6
The description of this route is definitely incorrect. It is located approx 20 to the RIGHT of Hippie Lip Balm. It is up the 4th class dirt ramp (access made easier with a fixed rope that has been installed).

As for a separate set of anchors- they aren't really needed, as it's an easy traverse over to HLB to descend, but that doesn't work so well if another party is on the route. Also - if you want to set this up as TR for newer climbers, it requires the last climber to traverse left, clip the anchors at HLB, traverse back right and clean the anchors at Fuzzy Side Up, then traverse back to clean and lower or rap off the sport anchors. I personally would not rap off the tree unless there was no other option. So I guess if someone felt the desire to add a set of anchors, it wouldn't be terrible.

Overall through, its a nice chill route that if/when it cleans up will make a great entry level lead route. May 30, 2017
EthanC
  5.7
EthanC  
  5.7
Definitely possible I messed up. I updated it to match your description. Aug 6, 2017