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Routes in Secret Garden

American Juggalo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bees in the Trap S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cock to the Rock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Controlled Demolition S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flashback T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fuzzy Side Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin Woolly S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Going Away Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Guns n' Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heavy Flow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hippie Lip Balm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leech Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Linear Regression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little T S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Wing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nachos, Lemonheads, My Dad's Boat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nilbog Night Life S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rememberbuilding7.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rethink911.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spork T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stinky Johnny's S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tinkerbell's Panties T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where's the Dope At? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
You Can't Piss on Hospitality S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
ae911truth.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
patriotsquestion911.com S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Patrick Miller, Bob Bartlett in 2013
Page Views: 466 total, 15/month
Shared By: EthanC on May 26, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the crack in the back left of the cave until you get to the roof. Either go up the chimney then traverse to the face or tiptoe along the rail until you can gain the right face. Climb to the hole with tat and rings or finish on the lichen-ey slab to a tree. Rap off the tree or walk over to Hippie Lip Balm and rappel onto those anchors. You can also probably traverse to those anchors without topping out. Route should be fun once it starts seeing more traffic.

Location

The obvious large crack around the corner to the left from where the trail meets the wall. Approximately 50 feet to climbers right of Hippie Lip Balm.

Protection

A #4 is nice to protect the roof.

Photos

EthanC
 
EthanC  
 
Definitely possible I messed up. I updated it to match your description. Aug 6, 2017
Louis Weiher
Milwaukee, WI
  5.6
Louis Weiher   Milwaukee, WI
  5.6
The description of this route is definitely incorrect. It is located approx 20 to the RIGHT of Hippie Lip Balm. It is up the 4th class dirt ramp (access made easier with a fixed rope that has been installed).

As for a separate set of anchors- they aren't really needed, as it's an easy traverse over to HLB to descend, but that doesn't work so well if another party is on the route. Also - if you want to set this up as TR for newer climbers, it requires the last climber to traverse left, clip the anchors at HLB, traverse back right and clean the anchors at Fuzzy Side Up, then traverse back to clean and lower or rap off the sport anchors. I personally would not rap off the tree unless there was no other option. So I guess if someone felt the desire to add a set of anchors, it wouldn't be terrible.

Overall through, its a nice chill route that if/when it cleans up will make a great entry level lead route. May 30, 2017
Derrick Keene
Kentucky
  5.7
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
  5.7
Not sure if the description of this route is correct. According to Redriverclimbing.com and the route I climbed this starts just climbers right of the 5.9 Hippie Lip Balm. Seems more like 50 feet. Easy traverse to Hippie Lip Balms anchors. Easy face climbing makes it difficult to actually use the crack. About fist size most of the way up though. Easy one for a beginning trad leader to place pro. May 15, 2017
Kim Ran
 
Kim Ran  
 
This is a super fun route and worth doing if you carried your rack in for Tinkerbell's Panties. May 10, 2016