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Routes in Secret Garden

American Juggalo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bees in the Trap S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cock to the Rock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Controlled Demolition S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flashback T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fuzzy Side Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin Woolly S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Going Away Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Guns n' Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heavy Flow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hippie Lip Balm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leech Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Linear Regression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little T S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Wing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nachos, Lemonheads, My Dad's Boat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nilbog Night Life S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rememberbuilding7.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rethink911.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
So What? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spork T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stinky Johnny's S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swole Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tinkerbell's Panties T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where's the Dope At? S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Can't Piss on Hospitality S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
ae911truth.org S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
patriotsquestion911.com S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Flunker, Bryant McDonnell, Brittany Venci
Page Views: 2,039 total · 46/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Apr 14, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb through an awkward start on slightly slopy holds to a layback crack up to a large ledge. Continue above the ledge on good crimpy plates to the anchors.

Location

From where the approach trail meets the cliff walk right about 100 feet to find this route sharing the plated face to the left of a small cave. This route is the left of the two routes.

Protection

8 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

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This route is pure joy! Climb it!!! Fun, fun, fun! May 10, 2016
Kristi Cookie
  5.9+
Kristi Cookie  
  5.9+
Seriously awkward placements of the bolts... I can't remember which # it is, but the 1st bolt above the ramp is IMO badly placed. It was VERY hard to reach being short to hang the draw. If you missed it, you would fall on the slab ramp and break something. Its a bit disappointing since the movement of this route is so good... I just wish the bolt placements made more sense. Could just be me being short though. Jul 20, 2016
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
This thing would be a fun easy trad climb. Only the last two bolts are needed. Sep 6, 2017
CL1MB0N
  5.9+ PG13
CL1MB0N  
  5.9+ PG13
As Kristi Cookie said, Bolt #3 is sketch-city. Very hard to reach unless you are tall. Why they put the bolt there beats me. Should have put it right and just have people use an extended draw. If you can't reach the third bolt and the line to the right is free, use an alpine draw to extend the bolt to the right, make moves left, skip the existing 3rd bolt, move to the 4th bolt, clip, downclimb, and unclip your extended draw to reduce rope drag. Apr 2, 2018
DavidTighe
Cleveland, OH
 
DavidTighe   Cleveland, OH
 
Bolt 3 might not be perfect but I think the comments here are a little overblown. There are good holds right next to it. It's not without risk but it's definitely not "sketch city". Nov 7, 2018

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