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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JB
Page Views: 574 total, 19/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The Creature could be your worst nightmare, till you figure out the boulder problem start. Stick clipping the first bolt may be a prudent move if the grade is your limit. Otherwise, a good, long warmup with pretty good stone.

Start off on gothic features to small tricky holds, and eventually a series of jugs in the seam. Move right onto slabby face and small hand and foot holds. Boulder one move to more jugs and a natural break at a conspicuous arĂȘte feature. Climb up dihedral until you can commit to turning left on to the arĂȘte. Scamper up to the hanging chain anchors.

Location

Center of TheMain Wall center.

Protection

Spacey bolts.

Photos

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Dean Hoffman  
 
Fun link up if you take a few pieces of gear and tip toe right from the last bolt into the finish of Sunnyside... Creature From the Sunnyside 10+? May 26, 2015