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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JB
Page Views: 674 total · 18/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: The Peaks Crag is Closed due to Peregrine Nesting until July 30 Details

Description

The Creature could be your worst nightmare, till you figure out the boulder problem start. Stick clipping the first bolt may be a prudent move if the grade is your limit. Otherwise, a good, long warmup with pretty good stone.

Start off on gothic features to small tricky holds, and eventually a series of jugs in the seam. Move right onto slabby face and small hand and foot holds. Boulder one move to more jugs and a natural break at a conspicuous arĂȘte feature. Climb up dihedral until you can commit to turning left on to the arĂȘte. Scamper up to the hanging chain anchors.

Location

Right of the conspicuous 50/50 which starts as a right facing dihedral.

Protection

Spacey bolts.

Photos

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Dean Hoffman  
 
Fun link up if you take a few pieces of gear and tip toe right from the last bolt into the finish of Sunnyside... Creature From the Sunnyside 10+? May 26, 2015
Thanks Dean Hoffman for posting this up this way instead of creating more confusion by calling this a whole new route. Really sucks when I am looking for a route that turns out to be nothing more than a link or variation. May 15, 2018

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