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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JB
Page Views: 606 total · 17/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Forest Service Parking Requests Details

Description

The Creature could be your worst nightmare, till you figure out the boulder problem start. Stick clipping the first bolt may be a prudent move if the grade is your limit. Otherwise, a good, long warmup with pretty good stone.

Start off on gothic features to small tricky holds, and eventually a series of jugs in the seam. Move right onto slabby face and small hand and foot holds. Boulder one move to more jugs and a natural break at a conspicuous arĂȘte feature. Climb up dihedral until you can commit to turning left on to the arĂȘte. Scamper up to the hanging chain anchors.

Location

Right of the conspicuous 50/50 which starts as a right facing dihedral.

Protection

Spacey bolts.

Photos

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Dean Hoffman  
 
Fun link up if you take a few pieces of gear and tip toe right from the last bolt into the finish of Sunnyside... Creature From the Sunnyside 10+? May 26, 2015

More About The Creature

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