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Routes in South End

Amazon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Be the Burn S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Bulge, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Burning Point S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Control Burn S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cryptobiotic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dacite Delight S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flowrider S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Furiosa Project, The S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Giggle Drops S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Giggle Smoke S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Latebloomer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steeper by the Dozen T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up in Smoke S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, 2009
Page Views: 2,420 total · 58/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

Up in Smoke is the rather eye catching dihedral to the right of Giggle Drops and gets it's name from the stunning white water streaks on the wall, which resemble plumes of smoke rising into the air.

Start below and just to the right of the upper dihedral on some less than enjoyable stone, to the right of a thick black streak. Thankfully, only a few moves delivers you into good rock and the steeper goods. The start has actually cleaned up a bit and doesn’t feel as scrappy as it used to.

The first crux comes in the dihedral, and there are two ways of doing it. The original route stayed in the dihedral using the right arête (.12+), while the path of least resistance strays left onto Giggle Drops. The dihedral eventually spills out into a welcomed shake before the next crux. A little toe tapping technical mastery and a few scruffy holds will lead you to some welcomed jugs. One last boulder problem guards the angle break. A great shake at the break let's you eye up the final thought provoking and exposed climbing to the hanging anchors.

Location

Right of Giggle Drops, left of Control Burn

Protection

12 Bolts. ClimbTech Mussy Hooks on the anchor provided by the American Safe Climbing Association 4/2018

Photos

Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Want to add a bit more pump to this classic route? Hang a runner on the bolt above the bulge after the second crux (7th bolt i think). Traverse right from flat holds, clip the next bolt on Burning Point with another runner and finish up the pumpy overhang of Burning Point. A great linkup. Jul 17, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
And if you want to hang draws on Up in Smoke check out Giggle Smoke 5.11-. May 6, 2018
I always felt veering towards Giggle Drops betrays the character of the climb. Stay right in the dihedral via stems. I don't feel it to be 12+, more like 12 flat, but really good. Also thanks to JJ Schlick for all the eloquent and accurate route descriptions! Sep 30, 2018

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