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Routes in South End

Amazon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Be the Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Bulge?, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Burning Point S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Control Burn S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cryptobiotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dacite Delight S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flowrider S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Furiosa Project, The S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Giggle Drops S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Giggle Smoke S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Latebloomer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steeper By the Dozen T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up in Smoke S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, 2009
Page Views: 2,198 total · 56/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

Up in Smoke is the rather eye catching dihedral to the right of Giggle Drops, and gets it's name from the stunning white water streaks on the wall, which resemble plumes of smoke rising into the air.

Start below and just to the right of the upper dihedral, on some less than enjoyable stone, to the right of a thick black streak. Thankfully, only a few moves delivers you into good rock and the steeper goods. The start has actually cleaned up a bit and doesn’t feel as scrappy as it used to.

The first crux comes in the dihedral, and there are two ways of doing it. The original route stayed in the dihedral using the right arête (.12+). The dihedral eventually spills out into a welcomed shake before the next crux. A little toe tapping technical mastery, and a few scruffy holds will lead you to some welcomed jugs. One last boulder problem guards the angle break. A great shake at the break let's you eye up the final thought provoking and exposed climbing to the hanging anchors.

Location

Right of Giggle Drops, left of Control Burn

Protection

12 Bolts. ClimbTech Mussy Hooks on the anchor provided by the American Safe Climbing Association 4/2018

Photos

Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Want to add a bit more pump to this classic route? Hang a runner on the bolt above the bulge after the second crux (7th bolt i think). Traverse right from flat holds, clip the next bolt on Burning Point with another runner and finish up the pumpy overhang of Burning Point. A great linkup. Jul 17, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12
And if you want to hang draws on Up in Smoke check out Giggle Smoke 5.11-. May 6, 2018

More About Up in Smoke

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