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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JB
Page Views: 395 total, 13/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 27, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

If you're looking for some trad daddy style climbing you just found it! This long line starts out climbing on bulbous rock to the right of The Creature.

Head up towards obvious notch above, placing gear until you reach a hard to see bolt. Work over the wee bulge placing some hands sized pieces and continue up to a break.

Clip a high bolt on the arĂȘte out left, then commit to the slightly off balance moves to gain some jugs. Move up into another alcove break.

Get your finger sized gear organized, and rest up for the final, desperate steep laybacking crux above!!

Location

To the right of The Creature.

Protection

If you play your cards right a full single set should do it. Save #.3 - #.75 for the top crux. Runners are helpful as always.

Photos

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