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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Hoffman
Page Views: 289 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on May 26, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Forest Service Parking Requests Details

Description

So you've climbed to the small roof on the Whistle Stop and you're wondering what if I went left out this cool little roof... Well, its exciting! I used a .75, a .5, and some metolius off-sets equailzed in a horizontal when I did this, as far as I know Joel Unema is the only repeat (he probably just used ball-nutz!) Anyhow, Crank up and left through the roof into decent lock on hollow sounding rock. Place a piece and move left onto the face. I placed gear in a thin horizontal and then headed straight up to the anchors of Sunnyside. Definitely need a TR to clean this variation. R rating because I feel a fall pulling the roof could be pretty catastrophic as well as the moves on the face. I intentionally did not put a bolt in the face. Not everyone needs to climb this line, but if you do I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Location

Alternate finish to the Whistle Stop. Second should clean.

Protection

Bolts, gear from small to .75BD (can't remember for sure what I used)

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