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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Hoffman
Page Views: 321 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on May 26, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Forest Service Parking Requests Details
Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

So you've climbed to the small roof on the Whistle Stop and you're wondering what if I went left out this cool little roof... Well, its exciting! I used a .75, a .5, and some metolius off-sets equailzed in a horizontal when I did this, as far as I know Joel Unema is the only repeat (he probably just used ball-nutz!) Anyhow, Crank up and left through the roof into decent lock on hollow sounding rock. Place a piece and move left onto the face. I placed gear in a thin horizontal and then headed straight up to the anchors of Sunnyside. Definitely need a TR to clean this variation. R rating because I feel a fall pulling the roof could be pretty catastrophic as well as the moves on the face. I intentionally did not put a bolt in the face. Not everyone needs to climb this line, but if you do I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Location [Suggest Change]

Alternate finish to the Whistle Stop. Second should clean.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts, gear from small to .75BD (can't remember for sure what I used)

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