Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bad Hombres S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off the Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Top Kill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trust the Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Hoffman
Page Views: 346 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on May 26, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

So you've climbed to the small roof on the Whistle Stop and you're wondering what if I went left out this cool little roof... Well, its exciting! I used a .75, a .5, and some metolius off-sets equailzed in a horizontal when I did this, as far as I know Joel Unema is the only repeat (he probably just used ball-nutz!) Anyhow, Crank up and left through the roof into decent lock on hollow sounding rock. Place a piece and move left onto the face. I placed gear in a thin horizontal and then headed straight up to the anchors of Sunnyside. Definitely need a TR to clean this variation. R rating because I feel a fall pulling the roof could be pretty catastrophic as well as the moves on the face. I intentionally did not put a bolt in the face. Not everyone needs to climb this line, but if you do I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Location

Alternate finish to the Whistle Stop. Second should clean.

Protection

Bolts, gear from small to .75BD (can't remember for sure what I used)

Photos

0 Comments

More About Old Walley

Printer-Friendly