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Old Walley
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Hoffman |
Page Views: | 1,169 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Dean Hoffman on May 26, 2015 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Closure
Details
Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods which typically start April 1st and last through early August. All routes south of Shaman School (Climber's left) will be closed to climbing. Please refer to USFS signage at the crag for the most current closure information. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of full areas, and we ask that climbers respect this privilege by adhering to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Description
So you've climbed to the small roof on the Whistle Stop and you're wondering what if I went left out this cool little roof... Well, its exciting! I used a .75, a .5, and some metolius off-sets equailzed in a horizontal when I did this, as far as I know Joel Unema is the only repeat (he probably just used ball-nutz!) Anyhow, Crank up and left through the roof into decent lock on hollow sounding rock. Place a piece and move left onto the face. I placed gear in a thin horizontal and then headed straight up to the anchors of Sunnyside. Definitely need a TR to clean this variation. R rating because I feel a fall pulling the roof could be pretty catastrophic as well as the moves on the face. I intentionally did not put a bolt in the face. Not everyone needs to climb this line, but if you do I'd love to hear your thoughts.
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