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Burning Point
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 60
votes
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 35.30642, -111.70566 |
| FA: | JJ Schlick 2009 |
| Page Views: | 6,349 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Burning Point is the logical lefthand finish to Be the Burn that climbs the sweeping, steep headwall and has retroactively become the top half of Control Burn, a direct start added in 2015. So visually, Burning Point now appears as a linkup. This beautiful and varied route is sure to get your forearms pumping and your heart thumping. I couldn’t call it a jug haul, but there are a lot of generous holds. For the grade, it stands out as one of the better routes in Flag and has proven to be a challenging onsight for most.
At the end of the steep, scoopy dihedral of Be the Burn, move sharp left past a little boulder problem involving shallow pockets out left and a slanting rail crimp above. This problem leads you left to a flat jug just over the bulge with awesome positioning. Continue up past a big pocket out left and eventually big moves over the small roof. A good hanging shake after the roof will hopefully let you get something back before the little coups de grâce crux which guards the anchor. This crux was created when a perfect foothold broke after just one season, and in turn the moves here have been breaking hearts ever since. However, it’s not any harder than anything else on the route or in isolation.
People also enjoy linking Up in Smoke with Burning Point from the dueling flat mini jugs after the midpoint crux of Up in Smoke. Smoke Point 5.12d. Joel Unema may have been the first to do this link(?), and the given grade comes from doing Up in Smoke direct.
Protection
13 bolts. Ideally, as many long draws as you have and 4 runners. Back cleaning or skipping certain bolts through the Be the Burn crux will prove advantageous for your rope flow, but not completely necessary. Not a route for short draws though. Stick clipping B2 or back cleaning B1 will make your belayer’s job easier.
As with other routes at the Peaks Crag, it’s quite common to see project draws on the upper half of this line.
2 bolt anchor. 10/14/2023- I upgraded the steel on the anchors and added ClimbTech mussies. In general, you’ll want to clean on TR unless someone‘s temporarily fixed a cleaning draw on Be the Burn.
Photos
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