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Routes in Loggerhead Buttress

Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chester the Molester S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chow Chow Chow T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunk Tank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Edge-u-cator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Goodhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammerhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here on the Inside T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lagerhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Nocturne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Log Jam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Material Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orange Juice Avenue T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Simian Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sink Like A Stone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sober Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sorry Poopsie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sow Sow Sow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Lady Stay Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swillar Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Urmas Franosch and Bruce Morris (1983)
Page Views: 256 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 7, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is probably the best climb at Loggerhead. A bit dirty in spots, but the quality of climbing and sustained challenges more than make up for that. Full-value 5.11a.

From Sow Sow Sow, leave the base of the cliff and follow cairns up the talus for 100 ft then cut back left to the base of the wall at a major corner system. Here on the Inside starts up this corner (same start as Chow Chow Chow), then cuts left under a roof at 25 ft. You then climb up through a some mungy rock to get into a beautiful and continuous corner. Follow this for quite a ways, passing one piton, and finally lieback out an dirty overhang to mantel onto a ledge on the right. Climb a bit further up easy hand and fist cracks to a pedestal with a bolted anchor.

Make two rappels with one 70m rope to get down.

Protection

Many pieces from tiny to 2". A triple set of cams from .5" to 1.25" would be nice. This pitch is really long and sustained so most people will probably want a lot of gear.

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