Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Urmas Franosch and Bruce Morris (1983)
Page Views: 328 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 7, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is probably the best climb at Loggerhead. A bit dirty in spots, but the quality of climbing and sustained challenges more than make up for that. Full-value 5.11a.

From Sow Sow Sow, leave the base of the cliff and follow cairns up the talus for 100 ft then cut back left to the base of the wall at a major corner system. Here on the Inside starts up this corner (same start as Chow Chow Chow), then cuts left under a roof at 25 ft. You then climb up through a some mungy rock to get into a beautiful and continuous corner. Follow this for quite a ways, passing one piton, and finally lieback out an dirty overhang to mantel onto a ledge on the right. Climb a bit further up easy hand and fist cracks to a pedestal with a bolted anchor.

Make two rappels with one 70m rope to get down.

Protection

Many pieces from tiny to 2". A triple set of cams from .5" to 1.25" would be nice. This pitch is really long and sustained so most people will probably want a lot of gear.

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