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Routes in Loggerhead Buttress

Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chester the Molester S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chow Chow Chow T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunk Tank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Edge-u-cator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Goodhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammerhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here on the Inside T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lagerhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Nocturne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Log Jam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Material Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orange Juice Avenue T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Simian Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sink Like A Stone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sober Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sorry Poopsie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sow Sow Sow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Lady Stay Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swillar Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Schoen 1993
Page Views: 341 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 8, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a fun and varied climb that goes from slab to overhang. There is a bit of grit in some spots due to a lack of ascents, but it should clean up nicely with more traffic. It also currently has a single anchor bolt with a carabiner to lower off of.

At the toe of the buttress, just to the right of Orange Juice Avenue is a prominent arching roof. There is a crack/seam in the center of this roof and Sink Like A Stone follows the bolted line straight up to this point.

The bottom third of the route is an 11b/c slab on darker rock. The middle third transitions onto the gold headwall and is defined by a pair of zig-zagging hand traverses and mantles. Shake out before launching into the final section of the route - a gently overhanging crack and face. A piece (around 1-2") is useful for plugging in the crack between two of the bolts. Fight the pump to the single bolt anchor.

Protection

9 bolts, optional 1" piece

Photos

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I sank like a very large rock on this one. Is it me, or does this route seem hard for the grade? Not like 11d isn't hard, but whoa!!! To me this route makes Chester the Molester seem like 5.7.

It is a really cool looking line that is for sure.

Good stuff! Apr 7, 2015

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