Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Loggerhead Buttress is good year round. It receives winter sunshine in the morning and summer shade in the afternoon. It is a secluded area with little to no traffic. Expect little to no company while climbing here.

The quality of rock here is excellent. As with many areas of Yosemite expect old-school climbs mixed together with new sport routes. There is something for everyone at this buttress.

Tucker Tech didn't put many rappel chains in so bring extra slings to leave at the bolted anchors.

Getting There

Park at the picnic area 1.6 miles west of Camp 4. (Same as Manure Pile) Hike west +/-75 yards until a small climbers trail is reached. Follow this broken trail uphill to the toe of the buttress. The offwidth of Orange Juice Avenue is the first climb at the bottom of the buttress. Trend uphill along the eastern side of the base for the other climbs.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Loggerhead Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Loggerhead Ledge Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Orange Juice Avenue
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Simian Sex
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Loggerhead Ledge Route
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Orange Juice Avenue
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Simian Sex
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Loggerhead Buttress »

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Photos

Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
There are some really good crack climbs around the left toe of the buttress. Corner shop 10d, Cutting corners 10b, and a really nice bolted arete up high that was scrubbed down to the last speck of dirt. All climbs by Brian "Mr. way". Sep 14, 2013