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Loggerhead Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 2. Loggerhead Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	2. Loggerhead Buttress \| 1708 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chow Chow Chow T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Drunk Tank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Edge-u-cator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Goodhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hammerhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Happy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Here on the Inside T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lagerhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Le Nocturne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Log Jam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Loggerhead Ledge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Material Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Orange Juice Avenue T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Simian Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Sink Like A Stone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sober Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Sorry Poopsie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sow Sow Sow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Stay Lady Stay Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Swillar Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Winter Sport S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Elevation:	4,299 ft	1,310 m
GPS:	37.72965, -119.62316 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	24,972 total · 127/month
Shared By:	Osprey Overhang on Nov 27, 2009
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

Loggerhead Buttress is good year round. It receives winter sunshine in the morning and summer shade in the afternoon. It is a secluded area with little to no traffic. Expect little to no company while climbing here.

The quality of rock here is excellent. As with many areas of Yosemite expect old-school climbs mixed together with new sport routes. There is something for everyone at this buttress.

Tucker Tech didn't put many rappel chains in so bring extra slings to leave at the bolted anchors.

Getting There

Park at the picnic area 1.6 miles west of Camp 4. (Same as Manure Pile) Hike west +/-75 yards until a small climbers trail is reached. Follow this broken trail uphill to the toe of the buttress. The offwidth of Orange Juice Avenue is the first climb at the bottom of the buttress. Trend uphill along the eastern side of the base for the other climbs.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Loggerhead Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 12 ● Loggerhead Ledge Route Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 12 ● Orange Juice Avenue Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 8 ● Simian Sex Trad