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Routes in Loggerhead Buttress

Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chester the Molester S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chow Chow Chow T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunk Tank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Edge-u-cator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Goodhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammerhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here on the Inside T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lagerhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Nocturne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Log Jam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Material Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orange Juice Avenue T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Simian Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sink Like A Stone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sober Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sorry Poopsie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sow Sow Sow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Lady Stay Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swillar Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tucker Tech (1989)
Page Views: 85 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Sober Up climbs the slab to the right of Swillar Pillar before crossing through that route to join Drunk Tank at the very end. Start the same as for Swillar Pillar, but move off right to clip a very high first bolt (5.9 R/X moves before the bolt). Then climb up past an undercling to a second bolt. From here take a discontinuous crack which angles up and left to briefly join Swillar Pillar. At the roof, pull directly over to a vertical seam and clip a final bolt before moving up and left on fragile holds to finish on Drunk Tank.

This climb can be toproped after leading Swillar Pillar. Given the current condition of the bolts (old 3/8") combined with the already serious nature of the climbing, it's probably not a bad idea to just take the TR ride.

Protection

Pro to 1" with extra small stuff.

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