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Routes in Loggerhead Buttress

Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chester the Molester S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chow Chow Chow T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunk Tank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Edge-u-cator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Goodhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammerhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here on the Inside T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lagerhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Nocturne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Log Jam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Material Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orange Juice Avenue T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Simian Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sink Like A Stone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sober Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sorry Poopsie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sow Sow Sow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Lady Stay Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swillar Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,287 total · 21/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 27, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended.

Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.

Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.

Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.

This is one of the better ledges in the Valley. Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope: From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap. With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.


This route is located about 1/3 of the way up from the toe of the buttress, and is identified by the groove that marks the first pitch.


Carry gear to 4.5 in. and include plenty of long runners.


Osprey Overhang   ...
I think this climb will see a bit of a revival over the next decade. The ledge is really worth the climb, and good obscurities are becoming trendy again. The unattractive look of pitch one could turn some parties around, but this should be on everyone's to do list. Avoid the Manure Pile crowds and give this old moderate a try, you'll be glad you did. Feb 10, 2011
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
An old school feel with some awkward wide sections and chimneying . A beautiful ledge up higher with excellent views . Well worth doing , and not too hard . Nov 5, 2011
Nice in the warm season too. Dec 16, 2011
Chimney practice with a cool summit and no crowds. Pitch 2 begins with a dirty section and ends with a steep chimney, awkward enough that I wouldn't suggest to brand new 5.7 leader. Jul 2, 2013

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